2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I used that stainless bolt kit from zcardepot and mine leaked too. Put the OEs in and now dry as sandpaper. I had some other issues with that kit. Some lengths weren't the same and the threads seemed a little rough compared to OE.

 

Funny, my oil pump leaked too using that kit. Luckily I was able to snug it up a bit more and the leak stopped. 

51 minutes ago, 280Zrewind said:

  Anybody have experience with Just Dashes?   I’m having serious doubts about doing business w someone as unresponsive as Vintage Dashes.  

@Zup had his dash done by Just Dashes    I know he was pleased with the result

Thank you!!!

High probability that the clunk is the rear differential insulator. The rubber separates from the bracket allowing the nose to move up under acceleration then it comes clunking down when you let off. It’s a fairly easy fix, install  a new strap while you are at it. 

11 hours ago, 280Zrewind said:

Congratulations on the test drive!

Still having no luck getting a response from Vintage Dashes. No reply to emails and based on Av8ferg’s suggestion even joined Facebook Messenger just to give that a try.  Anybody have experience with Just Dashes?   I’m having serious doubts about doing business w someone as unresponsive as Vintage Dashes.  

I’ll message him for you.  Do you have an email address I can send him? 

Thanks for the help gents!  I put a new brake switch in this AM.  I made a video to explain the situation better. BLUF: they only work with headlights turned on now.  Will note work otherwise, so I know the switch is good.   See video link below, showing the specifics. 

 

Edited March 18, 20223 yr by Av8ferg

Email address is c310dennis@gmail.com for dash. Thank you.  

@Av8fergone of the two

black/yellow wires should be hot at all times for your brake lights. Can you see if you are getting power there? Perhaps it only gets power when your combination switch is on (we can trace backwards if this is the case). 
 

edit: oops I was using 75 colors. 77 will be green/red. Check to see if your defroster works too. Seems it shares the same circuit. Fuse could be blown?

Edited March 18, 20223 yr by Barefootdan

[mention=32672]Av8ferg[/mention]one of the two
black/yellow wires should be hot at all times for your brake lights. Can you see if you are getting power there? Perhaps it only gets power when your combination switch is on (we can trace backwards if this is the case). 
 
edit: oops I was using 75 colors. 77 will be green/red. Check to see if your defroster works too. Seems it shares the same circuit. Fuse could be blown?

Thanks Dan. I’ll check that out.


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I got a side bar question since the rear end clunking was happening.  I have a extra differential that I bought a couple years ago to get the ZX gearing for the close ratio transmission.   I decided to crack open this diff and look and make sure it’s the proper 3.9 ratio. He’s is a pic of that gear.  Says 39:10
Here’s my question…how do I know this is an R200?   It is possible this is a R180?  I know those were in the automatic ZX’s.  This supposedly came  from  manual.  Other pics I’ve seen of R200 look different.  I seems like some have 5 bolts near where the half shafts mount.   Here are pics of mine and then a pic of Yarbs ZX R200.  
This nice clean diiff in the pics is the one Yarb sent me.  Other pics are from mine.  You’ll see his has five 10mm bolts around here half shaft connects.  Mins has none. 

Edited March 18, 20223 yr by Av8ferg

ZHome page shows that they didn’t make a 3.9 in the R180.   So looking a pics online Ii found 3.9 R200’s that looks like mine and others that have the bolts around the where the hang shafts attach.  So did they change the designs in the later years of the ZX?  
 
 

The rusty one looks like a R200.   The clean one in the 3rd picture looks like a R180 to me.