77 280z Restoration

[Zed Head]

You can open up the 1977 or 1978 Prop and Diff chapter and there are drawings of the two.  Yours is a typical ZX R200, it still has the ZX mount on the cover.  The clean black one is an R180, the ring of 5 bolts is for the "side retainer".  The R200 doesn't have those.

[Av8ferg]

You can open up the 1977 or 1978 Prop and Diff chapter and there are drawings of the two.  Yours is a typical ZX R200, it still has the ZX mount on the cover.  The clean black one is an R180, the ring of 5 bolts is for the "side retainer".  The R200 doesn't have those.

Thanks ZH, Glad to hear I wasn’t duped when I bought this for $250 a couple years ago.
I’ve decided I’m going to pull the trigger and just get the rear end apart and move forward with this part of the restoration. Didn’t want to do it because I predict challenges like always and wanted to drive the car before it’s 98 deg out, since my AC still isn’t sorted out . I’m going to order everything I need before I remove a single bolt. Once I have all the parts I’ll start. I’ve watch videos of people burning out bushings etc…I’m hoping either mine are okay or I can find someone to do that for me locally. I have more research to do. I’ll admit I don’t know much about the rear end.
So this clunking in the back apparently is very common, I’ve heard and read. Generally considered a bad design, from my reading. I know there are alternatives to the stock parts. I guess the upper strap can be replaced by a hard mount to limit the differential upward movement.
TechnoVersions is mentioned in several threads on the forum. Then there is the R/T one I guess. The TechnoVersion seems affordable, simple and available . Is there any community consensus?

https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Barefootdan]

5 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

Thanks ZH, Glad to hear I wasn’t duped when I bought this for $250 a couple years ago.
I’ve decided I’m going to pull the trigger and just get the rear end apart and move forward with this part of the restoration. Didn’t want to do it because I predict challenges like always and wanted to drive the car before it’s 98 deg out, since my AC still isn’t sorted out . I’m going to order everything I need before I remove a single bolt. Once I have all the parts I’ll start. I’ve watch videos of people burning out bushings etc…I’m hoping either mine are okay or I can find someone to do that for me locally. I have more research to do. I’ll admit I don’t know much about the rear end.
So this clunking in the back apparently is very common, I’ve heard and read. Generally considered a bad design, from my reading. I know there are alternatives to the stock parts. I guess the upper strap can be replaced by a hard mount to limit the differential upward movement.
TechnoVersions is mentioned in several threads on the forum. Then there is the R/T one I guess. The TechnoVersion seems affordable, simple and available . Is there any community consensus?

https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Same boat. I’ll be tearing mine apart to do bushings and joints over the summer. Looking forward to seeing how it goes for you 🙂 I am dreading the spindles! 

 

Mine also has clunking and I landed on the technoversions mount instead of the strap. Haven’t seen any bad issues with it other than getting the correct amount to cut the bushing is sometimes a pain. But if the diff is off the car it’s cake. 

[Av8ferg]

So I ordered the TecnoVersions mount,   Starting cleaning up my replacement 3.9:10  R200 differential (not Yarb’s R200 imposter diff 😂😂).  I noticed TechnoVersions also has an option to mount diff from above and removing the stock mount,.  I didn’t elect this option.  Stock Nissan mounts are about $100.  I’ll look at mine once I have my differential out,   I guess I’ll check the half shaft joints once they’re out.   Might replace them regardless so I don’t have to ever go back in there,  I’ve got reading to do on getting this rear suspension apart and refreshed.  I guess this is the time to do the new rear shocks and Ebauch lowering springsi have already purchased….ugh 🥴.  I’ve read and been told I should put 240z rear strut insulators with these Ebauch springs to get the right ride height.   The springs only lower the back about 1”.  I have a maybe a 4” gap right now back there.  

[280Zrewind]

Av8ferg,

Any luck contacting Vintage?  If you want feel free to answer me at c310dennis@gmail.com. 

Dennis

[Av8ferg]

Av8ferg,
Any luck contacting Vintage?  If you want feel free to answer me at c310dennis@gmail.com. 
Dennis

Dennis, I did message him, but he hasn’t responded.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[280Zrewind]

👍

[Muzez]

12 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

noticed TechnoVersions also has an option to mount diff from above and removing the stock mount,.  I didn’t elect this option.  

Any idea the. Pros/cons of that option? I get a little clunking from my diff and would love to reduce it, though I would be a little worried about vibration coming into the chassis. 

[Zed Head]

I had the clunk and made my own mount, based on the RTz design.  I am pretty certain that the noise comes from the diff nose rising up then dropping back down on to the crossmember.  The clunk is when it hits.  There is a video or two out there showing that.  So, the use of a snubber on top is really just stopping the initial rise.  It works, just pointing out the why.

One nice thing about hanging the diff nose from the top is that you can mess around with your rear suspension without having to deal with the hanging diff nose.

But, really, a new diff mount will probably get rid of the clunk.  It's really hard to tell that the mount rubber is worn unless you stick a pry bar in there and lever it up, with force.  It is surprising how far it will move.   I made a new mount because I bought the car for something to work on, a reason to be in the garage.  It was a challenge.  But today I might just buy a new diff mount if it was available.

[Av8ferg]

From my reading you should not get any noise with the upper bumper because you trim the bumper to just be shy of touching the actual differential. Not the case if you opt to you use their replacement mount and hang the differential from the top. You will get noise if you go that route. They state that in the product explanation. I’ll buy a stock lower mount. With the upper bumper impeding movement of the differential it should minimize the stress on the OEM mount and this give it a longer life .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Av8ferg]

22 hours ago, 280Zrewind said:

Av8ferg,

Any luck contacting Vintage?  If you want feel free to answer me at c310dennis@gmail.com. 

Dennis

Dennis, 

Ivan from Vintage Dashed responded to my message.  He said he’s going to email you.  Let me know if he doesn’t for some reason. Want to make sure I gave the correct email address.   He said you can call him directly at: 510-779-8153

Edited March 21, 2022 by Av8ferg

[Yarb]

Good job helping out another member. I’m sure it’s much appreciated.