77 280z Restoration

[Av8ferg]

Today I’m installing the technoversion differential stop.  I have the bracket in but was wondering how much material to remove from the snubber.  The instructions says most applications should remove the bottom two steps but then it says but measure first. It’s a bit hard to measure holding an 80lb differential up there.  What’s is the general consensus.  Do you want the snubber touching the differential or do you want a small gap?  I know a few folks installed these recently on a 280Z.  Thanks 

[Barefootdan]

I recall reading that you could measure the amount needed to cut off the car if you pulled the diff. I'll try to find that thread.

[Barefootdan]

Here is what I found:

• Cut amounts 3/4"
• Definitely want a small gap, rather than compressing the bushing.
• Total length of the bushing after cut is about 31mm long.
• If you cut too much you can shim the bushing with washers.

reference:

 

Looks like what I was thinking of was the optional GM style mount that bolts to the differential. Oops! 

[Av8ferg]

Thanks Dan. I tried to find that posting. The search function on the forum isn’t great.

You asked about the differential removal. So if I had to remove my differential again since your might be doing this soon here is how I’d do it now .
1. Remove the sway bar. It blocks easy access to the propeller shaft bolts.
Not required but will make it easier.
2. Unbolt Half Shafts and propeller shaft from Differential. If the car is on jacks make sure wheels are off ground so you can rotate them to get different angle access to the bolts.
3. Tie the nose of the differential to the strap above diff. I used a slip knot so I could easily lower when ready.
4. Drain the differential-easier while mounted on car than sitting on the floor.
5. Remove skid plate under cross member. (2 bolts)
6. Unbolt differential from the crossmember mount (single bolt on cross member)
7. Remove differential crossmember (4x14 mm bolts)
This is where you need to be careful.
Lower the car and put a jack under the back of the differential with a little support.
8. Unbolt differential from mustache bar. 2x20mm
9. With the weight of the differential supported by the jack and the wheels of the jack orientated forward and aft. Slowly push the differential studs out of the mustache bar . Once they’re clear. Slowly lower the jack to to floor. Lift the back of diff off the jack and then untie the slip knot and lower the differential nose.
You’re done. Now I’d your have a transmission jack this would be much easier. That would be the preferred method.


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[Av8ferg]

The ZX 39:10 differential I have is finally refreshed. I cleaned the inside with brake cleaner and wiped clean all the gears. The outside is painted with POR-15 and I kept the cover with the exposed aluminum. I put the old plug from my 3.54 differential into this one, because it uses a type for an box wrench vs the 1/2” drive type. I would not be able to service it with the ZX fill plug because there isn’t enough space between the back of the diff and the rear mount to inset a 1/2” drove socket.
I put new synthetic 75W-90 gear oil in. Took more than what I expected. Read 1.3 quarts but it took about 1.7 before it began to run out the plug whole. Refreshing the 1/2 shafts now. Not fun cleaning all this gunk, and time consuming. Still waiting on my powder coated parts to be done.


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Edited April 6, 2022 by Av8ferg

[KenFirch]

On 4/5/2022 at 7:03 AM, Av8ferg said:

Today I’m installing the technoversion differential stop.  I have the bracket in but was wondering how much material to remove from the snubber.  The instructions says most applications should remove the bottom two steps but then it says but measure first. It’s a bit hard to measure holding an 80lb differential up there.  What’s is the general consensus.  Do you want the snubber touching the differential or do you want a small gap?  I know a few folks installed these recently on a 280Z.  Thanks 

John, when I installed the TC mount in my 240Z, I bolted the differential in place without the snubber installed.  Then got a few sockets of various lengths and started holding them up where the snubber should be until I found one that that allowed about 1/8" of up and down movement between the snubber mounting surface and top of differential.  Then cut the snubber to the length of that socket.  Just an idea.

[Av8ferg]

John, when I installed the TC mount in my 240Z, I bolted the differential in place without the snubber installed.  Then got a few sockets of various lengths and started holding them up where the snubber should be until I found one that that allowed about 1/8" of up and down movement between the snubber mounting surface and top of differential.  Then cut the snubber to the length of that socket.  Just an idea.

Ken, thanks. Great idea. Wasn’t sure I was going to get in there once the differential was in. Glad to know it’s possible. Thank you!


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[pogden]

When I did this I removed only the smallest two rings of the snubber cone. Mine does fit tight against the differential which is what I wanted for the time being (trying to remove all play from the driveline). There is some noise/vibration but t it's not terrible, and I honestly can't say for sure that it's due to the RT snubber. If you don't want any normal contact with the differential then you should probably shave off the next half a ring. Just a data point - the previous suggestion of trying various sizes of socket seems like a great idea.

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[Barefootdan]

When buying the TechnoVersions mount, is there a reason not to use the GM style mount? Seems like it simplifies the design and easier install. Perhaps increased NVH since its always in contact with the bushing?

[Av8ferg]

Work stoppage for parts.  Waiting on my mustache bar bushings.  Scheduled for a Monday delivery.  Wanted all this in before end of next Monday.   I leave for work on Tuesday and the won’t be able to touch the car for about 3 weeks.  I really wanted it back on its wheels.   
Everything is ready to put in.   

[Barefootdan]

Looks great. Those half shafts came out awesome. Did you install new boots as well?

[Av8ferg]

Dan, thanks. I hit those shafts with my power washer to knock of all the caked on grime. It was thick and struck in every crevice! I then metal etched the shafts and then painted them. Those l boots are not new, just cleaned them up . No cracks or dry rot there so I imagine they’re not so old. I put all my nuts and bolts in a shaker to clean them up also.


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