I have an ignition switch/cylinder lock question.  I bought a whole new in ignition assembly because mine is worn so bad the key practically falls out  and it’s finicky.  Hard to turn, hard to know what position the key is in, key goes in both ways etc..

The new one arrived and reading the forum is appears I have to cut a notch in two of the mounting screws to remove them. Secondly my old assembly has two wires coming out of a small black plastic piece right near the key.  This is separate from the actually switch.  I’m assuming this is what activates the buzzer to let you know the key is inserted. The new assembly just has a plastic piece there, no place to attach wires.  Is this something I need to remove and then attach my old wires too?  I didn’t want to pry that plastic piece off and break something.   Anyone else down this job recently?  

I would leave the new switch alone.  There are probably no electrical contacts under that plastic piece since it is a aftermarket switch.   Just abandon the buzzer. it is annoying anyway, at least for me.

I have never had to slot the anti theft screws on the lock.  I remove them with a small screwdriver, tap them with something counter clockwise to get them started.  Some have drilled a small dent near the screw edge to help with the screwdriver or punch.

There should be only cables on the back of the lock... never seen those on the side.. 

21 hours ago, S30Driver said:

I would leave the new switch alone.  There are probably no electrical contacts under that plastic piece since it is a aftermarket switch.   Just abandon the buzzer. it is annoying anyway, at least for me.

I have never had to slot the anti theft screws on the lock.  I remove them with a small screwdriver, tap them with something counter clockwise to get them started.  Some have drilled a small dent near the screw edge to help with the screwdriver or punch.

I know this is going to sound crazy but I don’t mind the buzzer.  I actually bought a replacement buzzer when rebuilding the dash   Good reminder you left the key in the car.  
I looked tat the wiring diagram and it doesn’t show those  two red w/ blue strip wires for the key anywhere.   I know it’s for the buzzer because it’s the only connection left on the ignition assembly and the buzzer sounds when the key is in.   
 

Yes, those two wires are for the warning chime. You can find the switch on the wiring diagram labeled as "Steering Lock Switch". On the wiring diagram, you will find it between the dimmer rheostat and the turn signal switch. The colors of the wires right at the switch are shown as red/w and black. I suspect that's what those pair of red/blue wires connect to at the harness end.

And as for being able to move the switch over to the new lock assembly, it would depend on how accurately the new aftermarket copied the original assembly. I suspect that the switch might port over OK, but I'm not so sure about the semi-circular black plastic actuator arm.

Here's some pics that might help:

 

Thanks Bruce for the pics, I’ll take a look and see.

Turn signals broken again.  Will check fuse and see what’s happening.  Frustrating! 
 

I finally got around to doing the first oil change.  The engine has about 300 miles on it.  I’m glad I changed it now because I thought about going to 500 miles but after looking at the oil it should have been done sooner.   The oil looked very thin first off, it is 10w-30 VR1 oil but I think all the start attempts early on trying to get it running has introduced a lot of fuel into the oil.   The oil has a fairly strong gasoline smell, way more that usual.  The oil was darker than I expected, on a engine that was immaculately clean inside.  

I bought a 2.4 motor with an E88 head once and it had a really gassy smell. Started disassembling and saw that the the head was squeaky clean under the valve cover. Turned out to be a flooding carb was dumping all that fuel then mixing off the head into the oil. Did you use new injectors? You may have one that is over spraying or possibly the CSV is dumping too much fuel? Just a thought...

Can’t say for certain, but seems to me that fuel you got into the oil early on should have evaporated off at normal operating temperatures since then.  Just recalling how oil dilution worked on old radial aircraft engines.  When a cold weather start was anticipated, fuel was deliberately added to the oil and would evaporate off quickly once the engine was up to temperature.  A bit of a puzzle because I’m assuming you’re not getting indication that you are running  excessively rich.  Can’t think of a path that would dump fuel into the oil that would bypass combustion.   Maybe a heavier oil for now and a quick change or just pull a sample to see if this persists.   
 

If injectors were used and need cleaning they will stay open too long and run rich.  Had that experience many years ago when my 76 (my first new car) wouldn’t pass emissions check here in Arizona.  
 

Good comments; so the injectors were sent off to be reconditioned and they were cleaned, spray volume tested.  They looked brand new when I got them back.  Cost me $130 for all 6.   The CSV is a good idea.   It is not new and I haven’t tested it.  Maybe I could disconnect it and see.   Car doesn’t seem to run rich, at least no more rich then these cars tend to run on this old injection technology.   I think that the fact the ECU fires all injectors every time is going to set the car up to be running rich.  I also want to make sure the CSV isn’t staying on longer that required and might just test the pig tail after start to ensure it’s no longer getting power after the key is released.  
 

Im no expert, I think gasoline flash point is around -45F and I’d imagine mixed in oil it would be much higher.  I never small gasoline in my garage either.  
 

I saved a 8 ounce sample of the oil and on next oil change I will send both off for a lab analysis.   My neighbor does this on every oil change on his cars.  He has a Porsche GT3 RS but also does it on his Subaru Outback.  🤨

CVS may be leaking by even if it’s not getting a signal. I don’t know if this has ever been a problem or not.  Just fyi, I use 20w-50 VR1 in my older vehicles and will probably use it in my 78 when the time comes, but I live in Phoenix. 

Probably guilty of excess cleverness here, but recall that this vintage of fuel injection was an open loop system so a bad input, like a failed temperature sensor telling the engine it was still cold might signal the system to continue to run excessively rich.  Some place that has an exhaust analyzer could tell you if that excessively rich thing was going on.