77 280z Restoration

[Av8ferg]

15 hours ago, 280Zrewind said:

CVS may be leaking by even if it’s not getting a signal. I don’t know if this has ever been a problem or not.  Just fyi, I use 20w-50 VR1 in my older vehicles and will probably use it in my 78 when the time comes, but I live in Phoenix. 

So what is the consensus on oil weight for these engines.  I don’t disagree with you on an older (as in lots of miles) engine.   My engine was a complete rebuild, as in all new rings, bearings, seals etc.   I agree 10W-30 seems thin but I bought this weight because I read somewhere back when  doing my rebuild that this was the weight to use.  I live in a temperate climate.   It’s been in the 80’s the past few weeks, we get some mid 90’s now and then and the winters are very mild too.   We might get 10 days with temps below where the clear liquid turn to a solid.  High 40’s to high 50’s in the dead of winter.   We had a 24deg day last year and people freaked out and were chanting to the pagan gods asking for forgiveness.   
Good question to throw out to the community.  
What oil are you all using …..let’s hear it and why.  
 

[280Zrewind]

In your situation with possible fuel dilution, I was thinking that going w a heavier oil to start with could be a good idea until you get that cleared up. 
In my day to day drive vehicles I go with the recommended oil weight.  My understanding is that newer vehicles have gone to lighter oils for better fuel economy and that’s a good thing for vehicles I put significant miles on.  I also have heard newer engines have tighter tolerances to go along with that lower weight oil.

The engine I’m rebuilding came w a set of Ross racing piston that called for using 20w50 to coat the rings for installation.  I already use 20w50 VR1 in an 70 Buick Riviera 455 engine because of some oil pressure issues common to that engine.  I live in a hot climate and don’t think that’s a bad choice for the Z if nothing more than to just not having  a lot of different oils around.  

Also I understand that muti-weight oil is base weight plus polymers to got the second weight.  (20w50 is 20 weight oil w polymers to make it act like 50 at high temps.)  I suppose it’s overkill, but I kind of like that if you get polymer failure you still have 20w oil.  Just my two cents. 

[w3wilkes]

I've been running Joe Gibbs 15-50 HR1 oil in my untouched 100K+ miles Z motor as it has all the additives these older engines like.

Amazon.com: Driven Racing Oil HR-1 Hot Rod Motor Oil Conventional 15w-50 (12 Quart Case) : Automotive

 

[Av8ferg]

I’ve never heard of that HR1 oil.   I’ve been using the Valvoline VR1 oil.  
So I opened the owners manual for my car to see what it said about oil.  It was pretty generic unlike what new cars recommend.  

I took a picture of the section.  It basically says that the weight is dependent on the a temperature you plan to operate the car in as your leading factor with the caveat of not to use 5W-20 for sustained high speed driving.  Reading this chart, I should probably use a higher weight oil.  The chart is a bit cryptic as it shows 10W-30 and 10W-40 in the 0-60deg F range and also list those oils in the 20-100def F range?  I have 5 more quarts of 10W-30 in my garage and will use that and then swap over to a heavier oil.  Maybe 10W-40 next purchase.  
Check it out.  
 

[Av8ferg]

I’ve never heard of that HR1 oil.   I’ve been using the Valvoline VR1 oil.  
So I opened the owners manual for my car to see what it said about oil.  It was pretty generic unlike what new cars recommend.  

I took a picture of the section.  It basically says that the weight is dependent on the a temperature you plan to operate the car in as your leading factor with the caveat of not to use 5W-20 for sustained high speed driving.  Reading this chart, I should probably use a higher weight oil.  The chart is a bit cryptic as it shows 10W-30 and 10W-40 in the 0-60deg F range and also list those oils in the 20-100def F range?  I have 5 more quarts of 10W-30 in my garage and will use that and then swap over to a heavier oil.  Maybe 10W-40 next purchase.  
Check it out.  
 

[Captain Obvious]

I run 10W-40 in my car. Why? Because back when these cars were new, 10W-40 reigned supreme.

You could find 10W-30, but it wasn't nearly as prevalent as 10W-40. And you could find 20W-50 as well, but only at specialty "high performance" shops that used to have brick-n-mortar locations, but pretty much don't anymore.

[Av8ferg]

Okay, squirrel moment here. 
I got a couple things I’m working on.  One is I pulled my thermostat to confirm the temp rating and it was in fact 180 deg.   I did this because I felt the car is running on the warm side.  Wanted to make sure it wasn’t a 190 deg unit.   I ordered a new “high flow” thermostat made by motorad.  The Nissan ones are no longer available.  I also order a Gates premium one.  Mine I pulled from the car is a Stant.  I’ll post pics of the differences once they arrive from Rock Auto.  The Stant outlet orifice seems too small.  And why it is offset from center?  The stock Nissan one doesn’t appear offset lie that when I looked at stock pictures. 
I think my problem might be the lack of a lower radiator fan shroud.  
 

Second thing on my mind is after my flameout due to an ignition failure I’ve lost confidence in the car.  That e12-82 module is in a location that is so susceptible to heat that I want to go with a different option.  I read a lot about the GM HEI but it seems like a poorer option.  These GM modules have high failure rates and many complain about issues above 5000 rpm.   I need reliability not headache and not doing module swap outs on the side of a highway.   So I’ve been now considering a MSD 6AL ignition unit.   I haven’t read a bad review from someone who is using one.  See a lot of install errors but once worked out they run smooth, better idle, cleaner acceleration.  Im not expecting a increase in power, just a reliable option to what I have.  A capacitive discharge ignition like the MSD with my 280ZX distributor is supposedly a good way to go.  
I’d love to hear anyone’s thoughts and options, on these topics. 

[siteunseen]

I got lucky and have ZX full shrouds on both mine. The 240 has a 280 radiator which sits a few inches closer to the ground but so far and lack of driving it I've never had a problem. Actually the front spoiler is a hair lower than the larger radiator. Also have a belly pan on the 280. That car flows a lot of air over the motor. 240 belly pans are unicorns in my experience.

I followed blues tech tips and put an e12-80 on my '77, never had a problem. That's what I like about these cars, I've been damn lucky so far. Sit down in Harrah's in new Orleans and I'm broke in 30 minutes. 

Lucky at love I guess.

 

[Zed Head]

I think that there might be a Pathfinder thermostat that fits, it's just not official.  But it is Nissan.

On the GM HEI module the supposed 4500 RPM limit is really just a red herring that David Vizard created, based on his interpretation of the design.  He never verifies what he thinks happens.  He just didn't like it and voiced an opinion.  It's in one of his books.  And, 4500 V8 RPM = 6000 six cylinder RPM, spark-wise.

There are many options out there.  You have to be careful on the old brand names.  The companies are long gone, most of them consolidated under one corporation and parts made in Asia.  MSD is part of Holley and Holley just got "owned" by private equity money.

https://www.empowermidocean.com/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holley_Performance_Products

"On September 22, 2015, Holley acquired MSD Group, which includes brands MSD, Mr. Gasket, Lakewood, Accel, Mallory, Hays, and SuperChips.

On March 12, 2021, Holley announced they had entered into a definitive merger agreement with special purpose acquisition company Empower Ltd (Tkr: EMPW) that will result in Holley becoming a publicly listed company on the NYSE under the new ticker symbol “HLLY”."

[Mark Maras]

The GM HEI is a cheap reliable option. I've not heard much negative feedback about reliability. But before you consider my opinion, know that I still like points and a condenser. I like mechanical things.

[Captain Obvious]

From my years in GM world, there were many HEI module failures, but those were attributed to mounting the module under the distributor cap and dealing with all the engine heat. 

I never personally studied the failures, but that's the belief. Keep it cool, and it'll be fine. Put it on top of the engine, and it won't last nearly as long.

[dutchzcarguy]

6 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

know that I still like points and a condenser. I like mechanical things.

Just before 2000 i put in a new pair of contacts and capacitor and.. last year after about 25-30000 km i renewed the contacts just because it was time, they still worked and looked good..  I like that very much, a lot more than all that stupid electronic $^!# that you find in today's cars hahaha..

I still have to put my 280zx engine back.. and if i have any trouble with the electric stuff.. then i throw it all out.. put some carbs in it and a 240z ignition, it's much more reliable then that '80's ignition stuff!