Okay job is complete and tested.   See link to the video showing both ignition modules working and how I quick swap them.  
 

 

What? You didn't use a 4 pole double throw switch? That would have been even faster to switch over. 😉 Nice wiring.

So you have NASA level redundancy. Good thinking!!

 

12 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

the video showing both ignition modules working

Yes, they both work, so you're gonna use one and keep the other for reserve.. funny.. (Please make yourself a note for the glovebox what you must do when you need to switch, in a year or 3 you will never remember what to do to switch to the other system )

What's about that starter at 1:45 min. in your video, i have heard a lot of start-ups but never one like this one!  Something is not right, grinding gears??

Edited September 14, 20222 yr by dutchzcarguy

12 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

(Please make yourself a note for the glovebox what you must do when you need to switch, in a year or 3 you will never remember what to do to switch to the other system )

I had a similar thought.  Or put some colors/label on the wires and the module pins.

I had a module crap out on me in my garage after some engine work.  Forgot to put two plug wires back on.  So they do fail for various reasons, but so do the originals.  I carried a spare module and the tools need to change it in the car.  I also had a spare ECU behind the seat.  

That starter is a gear reduction starter from a ZX.  It’s brand new.   It does sound odd but works perfectly.  Spin faster than the stock Z one.  This one is made by AC Delco bought it on Rock Auto

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209350,electrical,starter+motor,4152

I won’t forgot how to swap these modules out.  It’s dummy proof.  

10 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

That starter is a gear reduction starter from a ZX.  

I thought about that one, and i took a close look at your rpm-meter when you started but could not see any difference..  now i know how that sounds! 🙂  

It's totally different from the normal startersound!

Not a bad idea, I’ll keep the extra two wires pieces I built in the glove box and a card with the wire setup drawn out  in case I’m drunk and brake down 🤣🤣
 

Today is test day.  I’m going to run the car around and see if I can shake out any more bugs.  Yesterday, I re-torqued the head bolts from the rebuild and about half of them did tighten a bit (set 60 ft lbs), adjusted the valve lash and replaced the spark plugs.  About 9 valves needed to be adjusted.  7 had too much clearance and 2 not enough but all were within .001 of the cold specs.  (my back hurts now from that) 
The old plugs were fine but my local parts store had the NGK (BPR6ES11) in stock for $3 each so I grabbed them, only needed 4 because I had two remaining when I bought the 8 pack last time. Just doing my part to help the economy. 
 

 

I see a 3 (top) fatty sparkplugs.. indication that one of your carbs is not correct..(to much fuel or not enough air?)  Or those 3 cylinders have a problem.. not likely after a revision i think.

I’m running the stock EFI.   Those plugs have been exposed to all sorts of usually activity with the ignition issues and getting the timing and advance all dialed in.   Hoping they look better next time.  

Got some camshaft info that may be of interest. Canceled my order w Motorsport and went straight to Schneider cams for a regrind of the stock cam to their equivalent of Motorsport Stage 3 for fuel injected and rocker arm reconditioning. According to Schneider:

- The stock cam is made of better steel then any cam blank you can get in the US

- You should check for cracks in the area of the dowel pin.  This can be caused by not pulling the cam gear off straight 

- The stock rocker arms have a wear surface against the cam that is better then most

- Keeping the valves properly adjusted is important because excess clearance can cause the arm to wobble and increase wear.  The springs on the pivot end are not very effective at preventing this.  

- Stage 3 is the hottest they recommended for a car that will have AC w a manual transmission.  It requires an upgraded fuel injection system (which I’m planning).

From another source I was told the difference between an injected and a carburetor cam grind is the need to maintain adequate vacuum w injected. Not sure why this is so. They both restrict air w throttle plates.  Maybe somebody has a better explanation. 

I really appreciate suppliers that are willing to share knowledge.  

 

 

 

 

The difference in the injected and carb grinds could be the lobe separation angle. A narrow angle between the lobes contributes to valve overlap. The closer the angle the more it kills vacuum. (Thanks "Engine Masters").