77 280z Restoration

[dutchzcarguy]

A nice '70's look! I often ask myself when i see those louvers would they stay on when i'm on the german "autobahn" doing 200+ kmph? And are they not noisy, i never had them, we don't use them as it was not that hot often overhere.

[Av8ferg]

I really like the classic look of Louvers and oddly they are coming back in style.  You see them coming from the factory on new Mustangs and Cameros models.   The constant cycle of trends.  I still wouldn’t wear Bell-bottom pants or a Members Only jacket no matter how cool they become. 

[dutchzcarguy]

Just took a closer look at the rest of your very nice red zcar and ask myself why you still have the "overrider" (?) on it.. that thing normally hanging over the 280z Bench-bumper? Because of paintwork?

[Av8ferg]

Thanks, yep I’m aware of the drip edge on the back above the bumper.  It’s on the list of things to do .  I’ve avoided it up to now because it will expose the rough looking paint along the spot welds.   I want to drill out the spot welds with out damaging the underlying skin.  It will require so paint work too   
I think there is a special drip bit I need to proceed.  

 

[Patcon]

You can use a spot weld drill bit. I have found a round headed metal rasp in a die grinder works better. It's harder on the removed panel though. Make the metal thin and then wiggle it until it breaks loose. Then a die grinder with a 2" rolok to dress down the spot welds.

[Racer X]

I’ve used these with great success. I use a spring loaded center punch to set a dimple to hole the center point of the cutter. 
 

[Av8ferg]

Awesome, where did you get those and is there a specific brand you recommend 

[Racer X]

On 4/11/2023 at 5:39 AM, Av8ferg said:

Awesome, where did you get those and is there a specific brand you recommend 

I bought mine in 1989, off of the MAC tool truck that used to come to the shop I worked at. 

The cutters are brittle, and don’t last long. I wound up buying a few dozen replacement cutters.

As far as brand, again, it was a very long time ago, so I don’t recall a brand. It is my observation that this type of tool has been copied an sold under many names since then.

The plus side of using this type of tool is it doesn’t cut through both panels, only the top one. This leaves a nice round hole in the part getting removed, so if you are putting it back on, you have a convenient round hole to “spot weld” it back on.

 I removed the battery tray and the rear hatch slam panel, cleaned up the rust, treated and applied weld through primer, and then welded everything back together.

 

Edited April 12, 2023 by Racer X

[Patcon]

I prefer this type of cutter. Blair makes a lot of spot weld type tools. I find these aren't as brittle as the hole cutter type bits. I own a selection of both. These also will only cut through the top layer. You will see a change in color that represents the surface of the lower panel when cutting. Like a sediment layer in the earth. They do better if you don't run them too fast and use a cutting oil of some kind

[Racer X]

6 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I prefer this type of cutter. Blair makes a lot of spot weld type tools. I find these aren't as brittle as the hole cutter type bits. I own a selection of both. These also will only cut through the top layer. You will see a change in color that represents the surface of the lower panel when cutting. Like a sediment layer in the earth. They do better if you don't run them too fast and use a cutting oil of some kind

I’ve tried these. It is difficult to hold them where you want them. They tend to walk around.

[Patcon]

I haven't had that problem.  They have a small center point and I use a center punch to get them started. You do have to keep them square to the surface until they get started

[Av8ferg]

Thanks guys, I’ll look at my options online,   Went to Harbor Freight and  Lowe’s and neither had these bits so I’ll go check out Amazon.