8 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

Not the case if you opt to you use their replacement mount and hang the differential from the top. You will get noise if you go that route. They state that in the product explanation. I’ll buy a stock lower mount.

Can you point that out in the text?  Maybe you read in to it subconsciously, with "driveshaft angularity"?  I can't find anything specific about getting noise from a top mount.

Quite a few people running a top mount only.  It works well.  Although I did make mine to match driveshaft angularity.  RTz built his for a V8 application, originally, so changed the angle slightly.

p.s. they call it a mount but it is actually a strap replacement when used with a snubber.  Pedantic...

https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html

Edited March 21, 20223 yr by Zed Head

This past weekend I installed an RT mount (without the optional top mount) and a new OEM differential isolator in my 76 280Z. It is doable without completely removing the diff and rear suspension, but it's kind of fiddly. I'll try to do a full write up this evening, while it's all still fresh in my head, so I can make it easier for you. 

On my car, which has an R200, I removed 4 sections of the cone-shaped RT mount bumper to achieve a tight fit - essentially sandwiching the nose of the diff firmly between the isolator and the cone. When I was done, I took it for a short spin and did not notice any vibration/harmonics/noises that weren't there before, but I should probably drive it a bit more before saying that for sure. 

@Av8ferg, if you decide you do need to replace your isolator, I have an extra brand new OEM one I'll sell you way below the retail price. Because I'm an idiot. I ordered one years ago in anticipation of the day I would install the RT top mount, and then a couple of weeks ago when I finally decided to do the job I thought "might as well replace the isolator at the same time" and so I ordered (another) one. 

This past weekend I installed an RT mount (without the optional top mount) and a new OEM differential isolator in my 76 280Z. It is doable without completely removing the diff and rear suspension, but it's kind of fiddly. I'll try to do a full write up this evening, while it's all still fresh in my head, so I can make it easier for you. 
On my car, which has an R200, I removed 4 sections of the cone-shaped RT mount bumper to achieve a tight fit - essentially sandwiching the nose of the diff firmly between the isolator and the cone. When I was done, I took it for a short spin and did not notice any vibration/harmonics/noises that weren't there before, but I should probably drive it a bit more before saying that for sure. 
[mention=32672]Av8ferg[/mention], if you decide you do need to replace your isolator, I have an extra brand new OEM one I'll sell you way below the retail price. Because I'm an idiot. I ordered one years ago in anticipation of the day I would install the RT top mount, and then a couple of weeks ago when I finally decided to do the job I thought "might as well replace the isolator at the same time" and so I ordered (another) one. 

Your timing is perfect! I was going to order a replacement OEM insulator tonight. On a work trip right now and wanted all my parts ordered so I can get this started next week. PM me and I’ll be happy to buy it from you.

After much thought and advice from a reputable member of the forum. I’m going to go with a partial restoration of the back suspension, not a full tear down. I don’t want to open too many can of worms that I will have difficulty pulling myself out of. I’m a one man band, average to below average mechanics and don’t have Gucci tools like Captain Obvious. Mustache bar bushings and control arm bushings might be beyond my tool inventory and skill level. I don’t want to have another 6 week setback.
Plan is it clean things up, replace anything that looks bad and get the 3.9 diff in as well my Ebauch spring an shocks. I’m too close to being on the road to get a big setback.
OBTW, found a new windshield and ordered it. Got a great deal and it doesn’t have the blue band on the top!! The much sought after Fuyao brand That was a tough find. If anyone needs help I can steer you in the right direction as there are a few out there still.


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John,

‘Thanks for the help!  Vintage contacted me on messenger

Dennis

1 hour ago, Av8ferg said:

don’t have Gucci tools like Captain Obvious.

10 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

You have got to be kidding me!! That’s hilarious 

Hahaha!!!  

Okay…quiz time.  I was watching videos of people taking apart the rear suspension.  Who know what this metal plate/shield Is attached on the passenger side on the suspension.  Took a screen shot during a video and it’s circled in red.  I removed mine when I put my fuel tank back in.  What is it for?  🤔

 

Shot in the dark, is that where the electric fuel pump and bracket is mounted usually? I dont see mounting holes but the pump is in that area, no?

Not for the fuel pump. The pump is on the other side (the front side) of the axles.

I don't know what that is. My PO must have removed that. My only thought is an anti-puncture shield between the tank and the head of the bolt that holds the rear control arm in? Problem with that theory, is there isn't one on the other side...

So I found one of these plates in my parts bin.  I bought several boxes of Z parts for $300 from a guy in Memphis that sold his 78’.  One of those boxes had one those plates was in there. Had no idea where it went.  Then I discovered where it whet when I removed mine from my car.  It must have a purpose and it was only on the passenger side.  Don’t think it’s related to the fuel pump because like Capt said it on the other side on the axels.  The exhaust is on the other side of the car so it’s not exhaust related.  Someone on this forum knows.  Of note it’s very flimsy metal, not like a heat shield thickness.  

I thought that it was for looks.