What is this part?

[corbenB]

I’m trying to drop my oil pan and this is in the way I think. Is it a coolant drain? How would I go about taking it off? Thanks!

[SteveJ]

That is the oil pump.

My suggestion is that you take the following steps.

1. Stop what you're doing.
2. Get a copy of the factory service manual for the car. If you are on a PC, you can find the link in my signature. Otherwise, go to the resources tab on this site to find the manuals.
3. Study the FSM to find the relevant sections to what you're trying to work on.
4. Don't even think about removing the oil pump before you have the engine at TDC. (Otherwise, you'll probably mess up the timing on the engine, especially if the oil pump gets turned while it is out.)

On the other hand, why is the oil pump in the way? I'm pretty sure the cross member is more of an interference than the oil pump. By the way, from the amount of RTV on the oil pump, it looks like someone removed it in the past. I don't believe RTV is needed if you do it right.

Also, why are you trying to take off the oil pan?

[corbenB]

4 hours ago, SteveJ said:

That is the oil pump.

My suggestion is that you take the following steps.

1. Stop what you're doing.
2. Get a copy of the factory service manual for the car. If you are on a PC, you can find the link in my signature. Otherwise, go to the resources tab on this site to find the manuals.
3. Study the FSM to find the relevant sections to what you're trying to work on.
4. Don't even think about removing the oil pump before you have the engine at TDC. (Otherwise, you'll probably mess up the timing on the engine, especially if the oil pump gets turned while it is out.)

On the other hand, why is the oil pump in the way? I'm pretty sure the cross member is more of an interference than the oil pump. By the way, from the amount of RTV on the oil pump, it looks like someone removed it in the past. I don't believe RTV is needed if you do it right.

Also, why are you trying to take off the oil pan?

Trying to drop oil pan to replace rod bearings. Figured that if that wasn’t something as integral as the oil pump, then it would be easier than having to take off the cross member. And yea things not being done right are a common theme on this car lmao. At least the body is straight. 

[Reptoid Overlords]

So I'm sure you are doing what you are doing because you don't have an engine hoist or an engine stand, but doing any internal bottom end work is way easier with the engine out of the car.  I'm not trying to imply that you don't know what you're doing.

I have one of these and my friends and I have put it through the ringer for the past several years.  It's held up pretty well. Call it a cost of restoring a car. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cranes-stands/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html

[SteveJ]

23 minutes ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

So I'm sure you are doing what you are doing because you don't have an engine hoist or an engine stand, but doing any internal bottom end work is way easier with the engine out of the car.  I'm not trying to imply that you don't know what you're doing.

I have one of these and my friends and I have put it through the ringer for the past several years.  It's held up pretty well. Call it a cost of restoring a car. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cranes-stands/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html

Lucky you. I gave away my 1 ton after two engine pulls because it didn't hold up well (and my garage was getting crowded.) The 2 ton isn't that much more ($70 when they are not on sale), and I think it would be safer in this application.

@corbenBHere's another reference that might help you: https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

[Reptoid Overlords]

5 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

 The 2 ton isn't that much more ($70 when they are not on sale), and I think it would be safer in this application.

@corbenB

My mistake for posting the link for the 1 ton, as i sit here 3:00Am pacific time with my coffee before work.  For sure the 2 ton is the best option, disregard the link for the 1 ton.

[CanTechZ]

The biggest advantage of using a 2 ton, is the extra boom length, usually about a foot more. And at full extension the de-rated tonnage is double. For example my 2 ton has a 57" extended boom length and is still rated for a half ton lift. Also using a leveler is a must if you are pulling the engine and transmission together. Here is a picture of mine at full extension pulling engine only, it was useful having a leveler even for engine only removal.

Edited March 18, 2022 by CanTechZ

[Zed Head]

13 hours ago, corbenB said:

Trying to drop oil pan to replace rod bearings. 

I have seen descriptions of it being done.  You have to put the number one cylinder in a certain spot so that you can get the pan past the counterweight.

But rod bearings don't go bad quickly on these engines.  If you have rod bearing problems there's probably a lot more wrong that needs fixing.

You didn't say what car you're working on.  Good luck.

[corbenB]

On 3/18/2022 at 1:54 PM, Zed Head said:

I have seen descriptions of it being done.  You have to put the number one cylinder in a certain spot so that you can get the pan past the counterweight.

But rod bearings don't go bad quickly on these engines.  If you have rod bearing problems there's probably a lot more wrong that needs fixing.

You didn't say what car you're working on.  Good luck.

It’s a 75 280z. Was quoted a pretty high amount for a rebuild from a shop, decided because I found the copper in my oil before I had knock, all I would need to do is replace the rod bearings, and would save my self a load of money. Haven’t done real engine work like this before but looking at videos of people doing it made it seem pretty doable. Don’t know if I’ll be able to pull the engine though, because my dad insisted that I didn’t pull it in his garage. We will see though. Thank you guys!