Hi gang,

I just drove the Z 2000 miles in two days under a fairly heavy load (try about 700 pounds of baggage) and it performed excellently, I'm proud to say. Only problem is, I have a slight clanking from my engine when it runs now. I'm assuming its my valve clearances since that's what it sounds like. Does anyone have any good tips as to how to adjust the distances the easiest? Like most things, I know most people have their own little trick; I've never done this before, so I'm looking for some good information.

Thanks a lot!

I always use a socket wrench on the crank and set the engine to top dead center -- including the cam to top dead center. Then I adjust the intake and exhaust for number one. Then I turn the engine using the socket until the valves for number two are both closed -- then adjust them. Keep doing this all the way back.

I like Rick always use a socket wrench on the crank and set the engine to top dead center -- including the cam to top dead center. Then I adjust the intake and exhaust for number one.

However, I differ from here by following the sequence of the firing order. 153624 adjusting them as I go.

You can't get away from using the feeler gauge and be careful of the knuckles when you untighten the bolts. A little bit of slippage and whack - the head edges are like razor blades.

also check them after you tighten them as they have a habit of moving when you lock them down.

thats how ive always done it

As long as both the valves are fully closed, it doesn't matter which in order the cylinders are adjusted. Operator Choice!

How can you tell the clearance is dead on even with feeler gauge? I adjusted my valves with a tad of resistance pushing in the gauge. Someone indicated that looser is better to ensure oil can get in there to lubricate the cam lobes. However, having too much clearance will cause valves not to seat properly when closed and lose compression, no?

-Guycali

Originally posted by Guycali

How can you tell the clearance is dead on even with feeler gauge?

It is really a judgement call. Experience certainly helps. You want the feeler guage to be able to slide between the cam and rocker SMOOTHLY, with a bit of resistance, but not so much resistance that the feeler trys to bend or jam as you move it back and forth. So loose of a fit that it slides VERY easily is not good, just as too tight is not good.

The best suggestion that I can offer, is to have someone who knows what they are doing complete an adjustment of your valves, then jump in there yourself and use a feeler guage to actually experience how the guage should feel as it is placed between the rocker and cam when the gap has been properly adjusted.

I have read that adjusting the valves too tight will increase the likelihood of burning them because they are held open longer than they should be. Not sure where too tight begins, other than what Carl said. The one thing I haven't quite figured out is if I adjust the valves hot, once I finish the last valve and go back to double check the clearances again, some of the first valves I adjusted are too tight. This happens every time. I'm assuming as I adjust the valves, the engine is cooling and when I go back, the clearance has tightened. But this would mean that the only way to get all the valve clearances perfectly identical, I would have to rewarm the engine for each valve. Or I have to get much quicker with my adjusting procedure. What's the easy solution? Don't double check the clearances(the ostrich tecnique)? . Victor.

Tanny

I always do mine when its stone cold after the car has sat over night. that way the adjustment should be okay everytime.

Yeah, that seems like the way to go to get them even, but I know I've read somewhere that adjusting them while hot simulates actual running conditions better. But in the end it may just be nitpicking. Victor.

Originally posted by tanny

Yeah, that seems like the way to go to get them even, but I know I've read somewhere that adjusting them while hot simulates actual running conditions better. But in the end it may just be nitpicking. Victor.

You use a different size feeler guage when doing them cold and this compensates for the expansion of the metal which wil occur when the engine is warm.

I always do mine stone cold also.

I've always done mine hot, but after seeing the variation on the z, I think I'll try the cold method. Victor.