Wait or get it all done

[blitzkraig]

I'm getting into the nitty gritty of cleaning my engine while it's out of the 71. Thing is, I want to take the head off to do a better cleaning and paint job and I'm not sure if I should put in the new cam I purchased now, or later once I'm sure the engine will start easily. My reasoning here is because I'm changing the stock distributor to one from an 81-83 280zx, adding a new performance coil, and rebuilding the carbs. Since I've never gone this far with an engine and I removed and replaced the wiring harness I'm probably not going to get the thing started first try. Would repeated cranking ruin the new cam when I'm tracking down little problems here and there?

[blitzkraig]

Oh and can I use carbuerator cleaner on the engine parts? I'm not having much luck with engine degreaser. Thanks

[Alan Pugh]

I would be doing everything at the one time.

As far as the cam is concerned when you fit it to the engine make sure you cover the lobes with molybond, and also cover the contact patch on each rocker arm with the same. This ensures that there is plenty of lubrication to the contact surfaces of cam and rocker during the initial dry cranking of the engine.

To further reduce the risk of damage from non circulation of oil during initial start up, first crank the engine over with no spark plugs in, and keep an eye on the oil pressure guage . You won't get full pressure but it should give you at least 8 to 10 psi and get the oil moving thru all the galleries.

This cranking over also gives you a chance to check fuel flow and spark before you start.

Good luck.

Alan.

[blitzkraig]

Can I spin the oil pump itself with a drill to get some oil spread around? I remember me and a friend doing it on a ford 302 before we got it started. We used a socket that fit the oil pump shaft and an extension then spun it.

[Alan Pugh]

Yes that is a possibility, but you would have to spin the crank at the same time as not all the oil galleries are open at the same time.

Alan.

[blitzkraig]

So to save money, I'd like to change the cam out myself. I'm pretty good with engines, but I remember when I was ordering my cam from MSA the rep told me there was a peculiar thing about putting in cams on Zs that most people don't know to do and end up ruining it. I can't remember what it was, does this sound familiar? Thanks

[blitzkraig]

I hate to keep harassing you guys. I've never rebuilt an engine, only torn them down; so I'm being really cautious through this process and I need some advice. I've spent the day tearing the engine down to just the short block. Now I have some questions. When I took the water pump off a thick clear/yellowish substance came out (about the consistency of runny egg white); I'm guessing the water pump took a dump with its fluid into the block but I'm not sure. If it is, can I just back flush the block when I'm getting it ready to go again and wash it all out? 2 freeze plugs seem to have been rusting for a while and leaked coolant down the side of the block causing that to develop some surface rust as well. Should I sand blast the block before I paint it or just go at it with sand paper. I don't plan on rebuilding the entire engine but if I have to I will. Could someone check out the link at the bottom of the post and give an assesment of what I've got going for me? The engine ran fine except for an overheating problem I have yet to track down, and there is no sludge in the oil. I appreciate everyone's help. Thanks

Here's the link to engine pics

http://people.ucsc.edu/~crearly/temp.htm

[240ZX]

Inspect your bottom end!!!! The picture of the metal peices that came from your pan warrant it!!!!