I was hoping someone could tell me the name of the type of connector that is used on the fuel level sending unit. They have been cut off on my 240z and the previous owner wrapped the wires on the unit. I suppose I have a second question, what size of connector do I go I get, can I simply measure the diameters of the post I am going to connect them to?

Tanks.

This may be hard to explain here, but the connectors are similar to a regular spade type connector. They slide over the top of the post on the sending unit. You probably could use a spade type connector to replace the original ones, but you'd have to open up the spade part a little. Hope this helps, it's kind of hard to describe with out a picture.

Luckily, I have pictures of just about everything I've taken off my car. Attached is a closeup of my fuel sending unit, and the two wires. I intentionally pointed one of the connectors toward the camera, since I was very surprized when I took it off. I figured that the plastic cover was covering up a nut, kind of like at the alternator. Anyway, the connectors are kind of like a spade, as kmack suggests. The posts fit up into the connectors, and are trapped between the two edges. Hopefully the picture shows it better than words...

Bart sounds like a trip to a radio shack /napa etc. is in your future.They have a kit that have various type/sizes connectors and the tool to install them correctly.

Careful with the positive connector. I replaced the big O-ring to fix a gasoline leak, which didn't work. On closer inspection, the gasoline was leaking out of the positive connection fitting. I hammered the rivet tighter and put JB Weld around the fitting on the outside, and so far the leak is stopped. Victor.

On 6/21/2003 at 5:44 AM, tanny said:

Careful with the positive connector. I replaced the big O-ring to fix a gasoline leak, which didn't work. On closer inspection, the gasoline was leaking out of the positive connection fitting. I hammered the rivet tighter and put JB Weld around the fitting on the outside, and so far the leak is stopped. Victor.

The rubber boot over the connector gets hard, causing you to apply too much force to the positive fitting trying to remove or replace it. At least that's what happened to me. I'm soaking the rubber in wintergreen oil to soften them up.

Edited April 13Apr 13 by Parman
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On 4/13/2025 at 12:47 PM, Parman said:

The rubber boot over the connector gets hard, causing you to apply too much force to the positive fitting trying to remove or replace it. At least that's what happened to me. I'm soaking the rubber in wintergreen oil to soften them up.

That will soften them nicely but it's not a long term solution. Mine solidified again after a month or so... :(

Steve Nixon makes replacements

Oh thank you! I ended up having 2 spare gas tanks around from that parts car 🙂 so I just swapped the sending unit, softened the rubber boots so I could get the connectors on easily, which worked great. No more leak. So if you were going to repair a leaky connector on one of these sending units, would you repair the inside of it with sealant, jb weld, or the outside of it, or both?

I would use Seals all on the inside of the connections.

I once used it on a Ford fuel tank that had small perforations in it. Worked great!

I used piggy back connectors on the nail head studs on the top of the sending unit. Coverd it all with liquid electrical tape. Worked good for me, the rubber boots fell all to pieces on my '72.