1977, 280z with FS5W71B transmission

[240zadmire]

Primed and painted

 

[EuroDat]

7 hours ago, 240zadmire said:

 

Looks like you have the o-ring reverse lock out and the o-ring and seal for the striking rod. While you are at it would be the time to change the o-ring and seal in the speedo adapter.

O-ring 32710-14600 (24.00×2.50mm) & Lip seal 32709-14600 (14/16×4.2mm). If you don't buy original, make sure they are from NBR or Viton. Not EPDM.

Also: Check all the small springs in the selectors and choose the set with the longest free length/strongest of the two transmissions. Trust me, they DO make a difference.

The springs under the synchro detent are also very important. They give the transmission that click snap into gear feel. A lot of people spend a lot of time on the synchro ring and forget theses.

Great job on painting the trany housing. Looking good

Edited April 30, 2022 by EuroDat
Typo

[240zadmire]

9 hours ago, EuroDat said:

Also: Check all the small springs in the selectors and choose the set with the longest free length/strongest of the two transmissions. Trust me, they DO make a difference.

Thanks for the tips.  Yes, o-rings and speedometer seal are from dealer, including the oil gutter and left hand nut.  I was surprised they still carry the oil gutter.  The oil gutter has open end pan.  Perhaps I’ll bend it close to look like the one I pull it off.

 

good progress.  Waiting for the bushing and ready to put everything back.  

[Patcon]

Yes, I had to fold the end closed on the gutter I bought too.

[240zadmire]

Well, gears and bearings are back.

I don’t know if the process I used benefit/harm the bearing and the tight roller… I have a press but unfortunately the press head is used to raise the car at the moment 😉

so, I basically heat up the bearing a little bit hotter than the bare hand can touch.  Went in smoothly, especially when holding the main shaft and cluster gears.  So glad they go in so smoothly without having to tab it.   The roller bushing, I heat a little bit hotter and went in like butter.

 

 I read somewhere to grease the bearings to give some lubrication when dry startup…

 

[Dave WM]

one thing I wish I had done when I had mine apart would have been to put the main shaft on some V block when it was stripped down, then take some run out measurements. 

I don't recall if the FSM has a spec on that, but I have done some research on this and now know that they can be bent, and straightened if needed by a machine shop. they just lay it up in a jig and apply pressure, sounds easy but I presume its not as easy as it sound. 

[240zadmire]

Got the bushing.  About 1/32nd shorter than the one removed from the transmission.  Only one hole for oil gutter.  I’m thinking of drilling one more to be similar to the one removed.

the old one is actually tighter with the yoke/driveshaft than the new one.  Any one uses the new one have any issue with oil leak?  I guess I’ll drive the oil seal a bit harder as it more loose?

 

 

[240zadmire]

i decided not to drill any hole.  There is already channel in the bushing body to draw oil in.    Put the bushing in the freezer for few hours.  Heat the tail housing a bit and use the 19mm socket for removing Honda harmonic timing belt works beautifully.

 

 

[240zadmire]

Silly me, I forgot the orientation of the reverse check sleep.  I think the orientation should be up as picture below.  Can someone confirm?!!!

 

[zKars]

I think the holes in the thing are slightly offset so you can't get the bolts back in if you put it in wrong as well

 

[Dave WM]

looks like you lined up the hole in the new bushing with the oil gutter correct?

[240zadmire]

4 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

looks like you lined up the hole in the new bushing with the oil gutter correct?

Yes.  I lined it up to the gutter.