1977, 280z with FS5W71B transmission

[240zadmire]

2 hours ago, zKars said:

I think the holes in the thing are slightly offset so you can't get the bolts back in if you put it in wrong as well

 

Thanks,  Will double check.

[EuroDat]

3 hours ago, zKars said:

I think the holes in the thing are slightly offset so you can't get the bolts back in if you put it in wrong as well

 

Yes. Holes are offset. Only fits one way.

[240zadmire]

Alright folks, everything is in. I’ll let the seal gasket dry overnight and will try to put mount to the car.  The darn thing is heavy as a whole unit.  Shifting is smooth and tight.  The plastic shifter bushing is ordered and on its way. 

 

 

[Patcon]

Looks good.

You made a quick job of that

[240zadmire]

believe me, when you're motivated, you'll get thing done rather quickly.  Beside, experts in this forum help me a lot.  Cut down the time searching the net.  The time it took the most actually waiting for parts, especially the left threaded main shaft nut.

This is my first rebuild transmission.  I used the tools I have at hand.  Mostly Mineral Spirit, brake cleaner, wire brush and lots of old dirty T-Shirt.  Putting back is surprising easy and fast with the mini torch to warm up the bearing.  I did not do ultra sonic cleaning of the gears/synchros as I do not have the tools.  Mineral Spirit works wonders on soften/breakdown the layers of old oil.

 

Everything is at least 3 times heavier when you're under the car.  I do not have the lift.  And thanks God, first try I got it latch on.  Thanks part to the transmission tunnel.  It help keep the transmission from topple down side way.

I recall when I install the differential.  Though the back has more room and clearance.  It took me at least 5 times to get it on.

Will get the rest of the exhaust hardware install later.

 

stay tune folks

 

[240zadmire]

Folks, exhaust is in.

I seal threaded the drain and filler bolts and fill the oil via the speedometer hole.  I use the cheappo hand pump from harbor freight till the oil start creeping out the speedometer.  Then I raise the engine up a bit to drain more oil out.  The speedometer and filler holes are pretty close horizontal wise.  
 

fire up the car start immediately.  Gosh I miss the clunker, old, noise sound.  The transmission is so quiet.  No more rattle noise

 

took for a spin and it does feel smooth.  Shifting gears are so nice.  This is what driving car suppose to be.  
 

will do more drive test.  Did I tell you I miss this old, manual, noisy car sound.  The goddess, pleasant 3k+ internal combustion explosions per minute  !!!

 

 

[Zed Head]

That was a lot of work in a short amount of time.  Impressed.  Well done.

(p.s. go Sounders!  ha ha ...)  Edit - no offense.  I'm just trolling for soccer fans.  You might be rooting for the Sounders too...

p.s. 2 CONCACAF Champion's League final tonight.  USA team v. Mexico team.

Edited May 5, 2022 by Zed Head

[240zadmire]

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

(p.s. go Sounders!  ha ha ...)  Edit - no offense.  I'm just trolling for soccer fans.  You might be rooting for the Sounders too...

I’m so mad now.  My head is on fire 🔥.  Steam is coming out of my ears…

 

hahaha never sir.  I’m too focus on getting my car back to life.  Don’t have cable nor any subscriptions to any sport channel.  If I can help it, I rather play than watching other plays .

 

hope your team won.

 

Edited May 5, 2022 by 240zadmire

[Av8ferg]

believe me, when you're motivated, you'll get thing done rather quickly.  Beside, experts in this forum help me a lot.  Cut down the time searching the net.  The time it took the most actually waiting for parts, especially the left threaded main shaft nut.
This is my first rebuild transmission.  I used the tools I have at hand.  Mostly Mineral Spirit, brake cleaner, wire brush and lots of old dirty T-Shirt.  Putting back is surprising easy and fast with the mini torch to warm up the bearing.  I did not do ultra sonic cleaning of the gears/synchros as I do not have the tools.  Mineral Spirit works wonders on soften/breakdown the layers of old oil.
 
Everything is at least 3 times heavier when you're under the car.  I do not have the lift.  And thanks God, first try I got it latch on.  Thanks part to the transmission tunnel.  It help keep the transmission from topple down side way.
I recall when I install the differential.  Though the back has more room and clearance.  It took me at least 5 times to get it on.
Will get the rest of the exhaust hardware install later.
 
stay tune folks
 

Wow, that was fast. I have my backup transmission that needs a rebuild. Once the rest of my car is done I’ll try this rebuild. A technique I used to keep the transmission tail up when putting in the mount was to put a rope on the end of the transmission then trough the shifter opening in the body and tied it to a 2x2 that ran inside the car. When I wanted to raise our lower the tranny I would rotate the 2x2 tighten it loosening the rope . Worked great.


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[240zadmire]

The gear needle bearing race bushing between the wide and close ratio are different.  The wide ratio is very easy to slide in/out.  Perhaps 1/100th ID bigger.  You'll need some authority and firm persuasion to get it out on the close ratio.  I had to warm it up/down couple of times to get it out.  If you have impact gun, it help tremendously.  Beside that, everything else is relatively easy.

 

I highly suggest you to rebuild yours.  Had I rebuild mine when I did the engine, I think I would not have this main shaft needle blown up that toasted the main output shaft.  When I changed the transmission oil last time, the oil was clean as there isn't any noticeable metal on the magnetic drain nut.  But only couple of thousand miles, the blown needle bearing shaved off lot of metal on the main output shaft.

 

 

[240zadmire]

Greeting folks,

 

I've put about 400 miles on the new re-built close-ratio transmission.  Got to say I like close-ratio transmission, a lot; especially shifting gears from 1st,2nd,3rd.  The feeling that the wide-ratio didn't give me was that the "continuity" pick up from one gear to the another as if it is one continuous gear.  Love it.  The tall 5th gear also lower RPM as well.  RPM a little close to 3K when approaching 80 mph.    This is definitely help saving gas mileage, more than ever in Southern California where regular is hovering $6/gallon.  Ouch and burning 😉

 

No good deed goes unpunished, or whatever phrase is appropriate at for this ... 😉

Seem like I notice 2 new "issues".  They probably related so I'll list them out.

1.  Occasionally, and I mean occasionally I lost power.  I don't mean the car lost power by lowering RPM.  What I experienced was that the car was accelerating or while cruising and the transmission or the clutch looses traction.  It feel as if I released the clutch too fast when shifting gear from 2-3-4.  I hope I describe it correctly.  Please keep in mind that the RPM was either increasing or constant cruising in certain gear.  It happen every now and then.  Not like I can reproduce the problem.

 

2.  I recently couldn't pass on a good deal on the set of mag wheel.  Look like the below.

I swapped fairly new tires set.  About maybe 4000 miles on it.  The new wheel also balanced.  I didn't align the wheels though.  Just balanced the tires on the new wheels.  What I notice was that at close to 80mph, the rear is vibrating a lot.   I mean, I can feel my seat vibrating noticeably.  The transmission shifter gears feel normal though.  Read on forums seem to point to unbalance drive shaft.  

 

I'll check again if any nut/bolts of the half shafts loose ... btw, all u-joints are about 4000 miles old except the u-joint of the drive shaft are 40+ years old 😉

 

what do you think where is the culprit? 

 

 

[Zed Head]

Z car wheels are lug centric.  In other words, the lugs and lug nuts are used to set the center of wheel's spinning motion.  I would check the holes in the wheels and the lug nuts.  Make sure that they fit tightly.  Those wheels require a certain type of lug nut, that fits the hole precisely, not the tapered seat nuts that a steel wheel would use.  Also, check the seating surface of the wheel on the hub.  Might be some crud causing wheel runout.