Just putting this out there for people to remember when diagnosing electrical issues, I have seen this on a couple of cars now. 

First a 260Z with no turn signals. The hazard lights worked. We looked for continuity from the switch to the bulb socket. The test failed, so I took apart the connectors to see where we were losing signal. All of the harness sections tested good. We plugged the harnesses back together, and the turn signals worked. 

Next a 280Z with an intermittent temperature gauge. After testing for a while with mixed results, I separated the dash harness from the engine harness, again with inconclusive results. After I plugged the harness back together, it worked. 

Don't forget to unplug harnesses and reconnect them. Some contact cleaner or Deoxit doesn't hurt, either. 

I call that cycling the connectors.  After doing a long sentence in the high tech arena, besides smacking the cheese out of it, cycling the connectors is always the first publicly acknowledged step. 

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If at any tme you take apart some connectors and they look silver and black corrosion.. then they are corroded silver and you don't really have to clean those silver plated connections.. why? Silveroxide has even a better electric conduction then silver !!  Tell me who knew?

When i was a electronic engineer in audio (Pro) systems like are used in recording studio's there where a lot of them.. so now you know, let it sit on those connectors it's no problem.  

For the most connectors in a car i use deoxit also, as i could buy it overhere in a store for music instruments.. they imported it from the US to repair musical instruments!

Many years ago i used a chemical called K60 but it is a very agressive fluid.. and after some time the problem comes back..

For bad contacts in potentiometers i use white grease, special made for pot-meters.. stops also the squieky (Cracking?) noises in audio pot-meters! (For example: volume knob of your carradio.)