Narrowing down my faulty Cold Idle problem, where to get a replacement ?

[Terrapin Z]

Some used options.....

[240zadmire]

When I troubleshoot my car, thought the air regulator was faulty and was able buy one off of Amazon for $89 I think.  It was from Standard Motor Products #AC366.  The electrical housing was a it align with the existing connector but electrical pins matched up.  It worked but I later found a used one for cheaper and able to make use of it.  I return it and now it is no longer available on Amazon 😞

 

This one looks very similar. 

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ac369?rrec=true

a bit cheaper but still.  

[240zadmire]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ac345?rrec=true

even cheaper.  Not sure if they're the same

[Killain]

2 hours ago, Terrapin Z said:

Some used options.....

Well I have a test-light and a jumper wire, but I'm pretty sure this one is toast, I cleaned it up with some carb cleaner and let it dry in the sunlight, but it still is motionless ? I believe replacement with a known good unit is the best path forward. It takes all of 4 minutes to swap out this valve, I think a rebuilt unit would settle my worries ! But there is only one place I found who even have this item ! Looking in the valve, you can see it's locked in halfway ?

Edited May 9, 2022 by Killain

[Zed Head]

The meter or light would be used on the connection at the end of the harness.  With the engine running.

You can connect 12 volts (maybe even just 9, not sure) to the two pins on the AAR and wait and see if it closes.  It doesn't have to close all the way.  The amount that it moves will determine how much idle speed change you get.

[Killain]

I was able to find one by one the Zcar suppliers in AZ, called them, nice guy answered the phone, ask about it and he said they have One, and it's rebuilt, so at $212.00 pricey, but I think this might be my best way to go. I thought I read somewhere that there are some 'Rebuilders' who could tackle something like this. I did my best to plumb the rebuilding waters, but I couldn't find anything. I suppose Covid-19 and the last 2 years of inaction on every sector of the automotive marketplace and since gas here in SE PA hit 4.57.9 a gallon today, the entire auto marketplace is in a state of flux right now. And at my age I'd like to be more positive about a price of a gallon of Gasoline, but nothing I read or see indicates a lower prices anywhere on the future horizons. And today I got my New-to-me E-brake boot to match the new shift boot. . . . and guess what, . . . . 

[Zed Head]

3 hours ago, Terrapin Z said:

Some used options.....

Have you tested these?  I'd guess yes, since you're a Z aficionado, but confirmation is always good.  That middle one is pretty shiny.  Nice arrangement.

[Terrapin Z]

9 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Have you tested these?  I'd guess yes, since you're a Z aficionado, but confirmation is always good.  That middle one is pretty shiny.  Nice arrangement.

My test battery was low on charge so I plugged it in overnight. I will test a few of these this afternoon and see how well they move.

I did notice there are different numbers on them but I am pretty sure they are all the same. The clean looking one is A32-000000

I did not think these were rebuildable like Killain is mentioning. I thought you just replied them with a new, or known working one via the 12v test. 

[S30Driver]

14 hours ago, Killain said:

 And this is not something I can put off, without it the old 280Z stays in the garage ? what to do, what to do ?

What I would do is drive the car.

Maybe it is just me, but the functionality of the AAR would in no way ever prevent me from driving a 280z, especially at this time of year temps.  If you remove and bypass it, the car will idle low for 3 or 4 minutes until it gets some heat in it.

Do you actually drive the car in the dead of winter in Pennsylvania, or is it primarily a nice weather garage queen car?   In very cold weather, yes, you would have to keep your foot on the accelerator pedal for a few minutes to prevent the motor from stalling.

I understand trying to keep the car factory correct with all of its original parts functional, but the AAR would not be a deal breaker for me.

Just my opinion, your car, your choices.... 

[S30Driver]

Terrapin ...  You can also test the movement of the shutter just by heating the bottom of the AAR.   It sits on a heating plate on the manifold, the coolant circulates thru and as it warms, moves the bi-metallic spring which moves the shutter.  Just use a heat gun or your stove if you want.

[Terrapin Z]

Agreed, initially it would open with the 12V, before the coolant was up to temp, then the heat plate would keep it open for the short intervals of turning the car off say at a store or gas station. I concur that heat would at least test the plate action. I read that Killain would need to be assured that it works electrically. 

I put 3 in the house last night from the shop to test (low battery though) and see some opened more than others this morning, so even that temp change can tell you something. Ambient outside 50 vs. ambient inside temps 70.

[siteunseen]

Here's some pictures I made this morning of one I had

 It's closed at 60F. The red circle is what opens the top hole by way of the blade with the windings on it. I guess it twist when 12V hits it?