Narrowing down my faulty Cold Idle problem, where to get a replacement ?

[Zed Head]

16 hours ago, Killain said:

$212.00 pricey, but I think this might be my best way to go

Not clear why buying a different AAR without actually testing the power circuit seems like a good idea. 

I remember having my fuel pump powered from a separate circuit, for testing, and the idle speed took forever to drop to normal.  Because the AAR heater had no power. 

4 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I guess it twist when 12V hits it?

It bends (the two different metals expand at different rates) and pushes on the edge of the metal plate, causing it to rotate.  You can see that the bimetallic strip is not in line with the passage, it's next to it.  If you dropped your orange screwdriver down to the next hole you'd see what gets pushed when the strip bends.  I can't remember exactly how the parts fit together.

[siteunseen]

That is the larger bottom hole the screwdriver is in, pushing against the little arm circled in red. That's what opens this one I have.

[Zed Head]

Couldn't tell where the blade was.  Anyway, a picture through that hole would show what the bimetallic strip pushes when it bends.

All interesting stuff, digging in to the guts of the parts.  But, with no power through the circuit, he'll have to wait for engine coolant to heat things up and cause the strip to bend.

[siteunseen]

26 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Couldn't tell where the blade was.  Anyway, a picture through that hole would show what the bimetallic strip pushes when it bends.

We're almost om the same page.

This is a magnified picture into the larger bottom hole. Inside this red circle is a little arm that moves clockwise to open the blade in the smaller top hole about halfway to let air through, raising the rpms.

It's hard to see but it's there. Looks like a flacid penis pointing to the left. 

I'll put 12V on the blade later and see what happens. Must mow grass and drink cold beverages first. 

 

[Av8ferg]

I have 5 of these. Do you still need one? If you live in a warm climate these aren’t really needed, just make the car run richer until it gets to operational temps.


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[Terrapin Z]

Cold = open

Hooked to 12V = closed

 

[Killain]

1 hour ago, Av8ferg said:

I have 5 of these. Do you still need one? If you live in a warm climate these aren’t really needed, just make the car run richer until it gets to operational temps.


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Thank you, I ordered one rebuilt from Z-car-source and that will get here in week to 10 days, and a guy on FB sold me one a week ago, but it hasn't arrived yet ? A lot of money to remedy this problem, but my car is so original, I'd just like to bite the bullet and see what comes of it. 

[siteunseen]

I'm sure the fsm has the specs but I'm lazy. What degrees in farenheit does it close/open. 

My 280 stays in a garage that never gets below 50F and it always cranks up and idles just below 1,000 but I took the aar and warming plate off to get rid of the clutter and potential problem points. I just hit the gas pedal when it's about to die out but by the time I get out of my neighborhood it's up to temp and runs fine.

I think it's called "heel to toe"? 

[siteunseen]

And if you're going to buy a new aar you should reroute your pcv hoses to the '78s. It was rerouted to keep the oily funk out of the aar.

This is a pic I grabbed real quick but you may want to do some better research. You can Google"78 pcv hose update classiczcars.com"

[Killain]

On 5/10/2022 at 9:30 AM, siteunseen said:

Here's some pictures I made this morning of one I had

 It's closed at 60F. The red circle is what opens the top hole by way of the blade with the windings on it. I guess it twist when 12V hits it?

Hi All, I was able to get a used Air regulator valve, but when it got here the black electrical element had pulled out, I was able to push it back in but I don't know if it is in correctly, is there a special position for it to sit ? I had to turn it slightly but it did go back in flush with it's flange ?

[siteunseen]

On my 280, if I remember right it's been some years, when I replaced all the connectors the raised up little channel runs on the bottom of the component. I.E the aar, the injectors etc.

Heres some pics of some stuff I had downstairs for reference.

[siteunseen]