HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter

May 22, 20222 yr

Author

On 5/22/2022 at 7:42 PM, Zed Head said:

FSM wiring versus Revision N wiring.

It ran after I bypassed the ignition relay with a remote starter switch only.
I was having this issue intermittently before when sometimes the ignition relay just used to click vs sometimes it worked. This time I believe it gave up altogether and now I am all up to remote starter only.

Edited May 22, 20222 yr by MH77280Z

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May 22, 20222 yr

comment_640713

The starter solenoid power wire does not pass through the ignition relay. You bypassed the ignition switch and the inhibitor relay.

The cranking circuit is completely separate from the ignition circuit. You have a cranking problem, not an ignition problem.

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May 22, 20222 yr

comment_640716

Is it grounded good, nice and shiny on the bolt that holds the bellhousing to the block?

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May 22, 20222 yr

comment_640721

On 5/22/2022 at 12:24 AM, MH77280Z said:

I connected the remote started between two big solenoid posts.

And while ignition ON, I pressed the remote starter and also touched 12v to the solenoid pin and the engine cranked perfectly like it was before. Removed everything and the car is idling.

Just realized that this is not very clear. "Connected" what between the two big posts? Why did you have to touch 12V to the solenoid pin if you had a remote starter, with a button? A typical remote starter does all of that for you. Does "removed everything" mean everything, all of the wires to the remote starter and the wire to the solenoid pin? If so the ignition relay is fine.

The simple way to test the ignition relay is to measure voltage at coil positive after you turn the key on.

And, you should have only needed to touch 12V to the solenoid wire with the key on to get the engine to crank, and start.

Cliff/site - if the engine cranked and started then the positive cable and the ground have to be okay. The solenoid grounds through the starter motor mounting bolt just like the motor does.

Edited May 22, 20222 yr by Zed Head

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May 22, 20222 yr

comment_640722

Just for fun and because the wrong words were used early on. Here are the three parts with "ignition" in their name - ignition switch, ignition relay, and ignition module.

From ZCD -

Autopartone -

From Vintage z parts -

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May 22, 20222 yr

Author

comment_640723

On 5/22/2022 at 10:06 PM, Zed Head said:

Just realized that this is not very clear. "Connected" what between the two big posts? Why did you have to touch 12V to the solenoid pin if you had a remote starter, with a button? A typical remote starter does all of that for you. Does "removed everything" mean everything, all of the wires to the remote starter and the wire to the solenoid pin? If so the ignition relay is fine.

The simple way to test the ignition relay is to measure voltage at coil positive after you turn the key on.

And, you should have only needed to touch 12V to the solenoid wire with the key on to get the engine to crank, and start.

Cliff/site - if the engine cranked and started then the positive cable and the ground have to be okay. The solenoid grounds through the starter motor mounting bolt just like the motor does.

@Zed Head u r right the remote starting works just by supplying 12v to the pin. Other jumper is not needed.

Also, i tested the voltage at the positive terminal of the coil (assuming ignition coil):

- At ON there is no voltage

- When I move the key to START i see 12v

Appreciate everyone patience so far guys. I think we are not far away from getting to the issue...

Also, why do u say the ignition relay is not in the starter circuit? The FSM page i posted clearly says there are 3 parts of the starter circuit Starter Relay, Ignition Relay (not Module - correction) and Inhibitor switch.

Edited May 22, 20222 yr by MH77280Z

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May 22, 20222 yr

comment_640725

On 5/22/2022 at 10:51 PM, MH77280Z said:

Also, why do u say the ignition relay is not in the starter circuit? The FSM page i posted clearly says there are 3 parts of the starter Starter Relay, Ignition Module and Inhibitor switch.

You have interchanged the words "ignition relay" and "ignition module" again. Relay and module are two separate things. Even so, cranking and running involve separate parts.

If you don't have coil power at On then the engine should not have stayed running in your other test. So that doesn't really fit with what you described earlier.

One possibility that might fit your problem is that the mechanical part of the ignition switch is not correct. I had a situation where I had to twist the rod between the mechanical part and the electrical part to get the electrical switch to turn far enough. That might explain why when you changed the switch it worked for a short while.

The rod that fits in to the plastic slot has to turn the switch to the correct position. You can test it by disassembling the switch and turning it by screwdriver. You might find that everything works fine -