HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter

[MH77280Z]

11 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

FSM wiring versus Revision N wiring.

It ran after I bypassed the ignition relay with a remote starter switch only. 
I was having this issue intermittently before when sometimes the ignition relay just used to click vs sometimes it worked. This time I believe it gave up altogether and now I am all up to remote starter only.

Edited May 22, 2022 by MH77280Z

[Zed Head]

The starter solenoid power wire does not pass through the ignition relay.  You bypassed the ignition switch and the inhibitor relay.

The cranking circuit is completely separate from the ignition circuit.  You have a cranking problem, not an ignition problem.

 

[siteunseen]

Is it grounded good, nice and shiny on the bolt that holds the bellhousing to the block?

[Zed Head]

21 hours ago, MH77280Z said:

I connected the remote started between two big solenoid posts.

And while ignition ON, I pressed the remote starter and also touched 12v to the solenoid pin and the engine cranked perfectly like it was before. Removed everything and the car is idling.

Just realized that this is not very clear.  "Connected" what between the two big posts?  Why did you have to touch 12V to the solenoid pin if you had a remote starter, with a button?  A typical remote starter does all of that for you.  Does "removed everything" mean everything, all of the wires to the remote starter and the wire to the solenoid pin?  If so the ignition relay is fine.

The simple way to test the ignition relay is to measure voltage at coil positive after you turn the key on.

And, you should have only needed to touch 12V to the solenoid wire with the key on to get the engine to crank, and start.

Cliff/site - if the engine cranked and started then the positive cable and the ground have to be okay.  The solenoid grounds through the starter motor mounting bolt just like the motor does.

Edited May 22, 2022 by Zed Head

[Zed Head]

Just for fun and because the wrong words were used early on.  Here are the three parts with "ignition" in their name - ignition switch, ignition relay, and ignition module.

From ZCD -

Autopartone -

From Vintage z parts -

[MH77280Z]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Just realized that this is not very clear.  "Connected" what between the two big posts?  Why did you have to touch 12V to the solenoid pin if you had a remote starter, with a button?  A typical remote starter does all of that for you.  Does "removed everything" mean everything, all of the wires to the remote starter and the wire to the solenoid pin?  If so the ignition relay is fine.

The simple way to test the ignition relay is to measure voltage at coil positive after you turn the key on.

And, you should have only needed to touch 12V to the solenoid wire with the key on to get the engine to crank, and start.

Cliff/site - if the engine cranked and started then the positive cable and the ground have to be okay.  The solenoid grounds through the starter motor mounting bolt just like the motor does.

@Zed Head u r right the remote starting works just by supplying 12v to the pin. Other jumper is not needed.

Also, i tested the voltage at the positive terminal of the coil (assuming ignition coil):

- At ON there is no voltage

- When I move the key to START i see 12v

Appreciate everyone patience so far guys. I think we are not far away from getting to the issue...

Also, why do u say the ignition relay is not in the starter circuit? The FSM page i posted clearly says there are 3 parts of the starter circuit Starter Relay, Ignition Relay (not Module - correction) and Inhibitor switch.

Edited May 22, 2022 by MH77280Z

[Zed Head]

1 minute ago, MH77280Z said:

Also, why do u say the ignition relay is not in the starter circuit? The FSM page i posted clearly says there are 3 parts of the starter Starter Relay, Ignition Module and Inhibitor switch.

You have interchanged the words "ignition relay" and "ignition module" again.  Relay and module are two separate things.  Even so, cranking and running involve separate parts.

If you don't have coil power at On then the engine should not have stayed running in your other test.  So that doesn't really fit with what you described earlier.

 

One possibility that might fit your problem is that the mechanical part of the ignition switch is not correct.  I had a situation where I had to twist the rod between the mechanical part and the electrical part to get the electrical switch to turn far enough.  That might explain why when you changed the switch it worked for a short while.

The rod that fits in to the plastic slot has to turn the switch to the correct position.  You can test it by disassembling the switch and turning it by screwdriver.  You might find that everything works fine -

[Zed Head]

Leave it plugged in use a screwdriver to turn it.

[MH77280Z]

49 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Leave it plugged in use a screwdriver to turn it.

Just tried this procedure on the new ignition SWITCH (pic above) and same effect.

What is the best way to test the seat belt relay function here?

Edited May 22, 2022 by MH77280Z

[Zed Head]

That is not an ignition module.  It's an ignition switch.

  https://www.carparts.com/details/Nissan/280Z/Beck_Arnley/Ignition_Switch/1977/201-1174.html

25 minutes ago, MH77280Z said:

What is the best way to test the seat belt relay function here?

Find it, unplug it, test the proper wires for voltage with the key at Start.

[Zed Head]

I'll go ahead and step aside here.  Get a meter or test light and leave the key at Start.  Start probing.  Good luck.

[MH77280Z]

Just an update for you guys, I got the replacement ignition relay today and tried it with the same result. No change. Issue is somewhere else now...