HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter

[MH77280Z]

How many wires go to the inhibitor switch? i have not looked under but I was thinking is it safe to connect both and bypass the switch?

[SteveJ]

There are 4 wires total. Two go to the start circuit.

[MH77280Z]

Shorting the two going to the start circuit would not be any issue I think? That’s what the switch is supposed to do in N and P anyway?

[MH77280Z]

OK so the reverse / R rear lights operate normally.

Here is quick voltage check:

Ignition Relay: I see 11-12 volts on all 3 wires going to relay in START position
Seat Belt Relay: Sees 12v at WB terminal only

So basically there is no 12V in BY (black yellow) wires coming from Seat Belt relay to Starter terminal.

 

 

[SteveJ]

So, what you need to do is test for voltage to ground at the black/yellow wire at the ignition switch while trying to start the car. This is why it can be handy to have a test lead with a clip so that can be clipped to a ground while you hold your probe on the back side of the ignition switch and turn the key...unless you have 3 arms.

[Zed Head]

The inhibitor switch provides the current that actuates the starter/seat belt relay.  It's shown in your diagram.  Two devices, plus the switch and the ignition relay, that have to function properly before power makes it to the solenoid.  It seems unnecessarily complex, but it is what it is.

SteveJ has replied but I must hit Submit Reply anyway

[MH77280Z]

OK, so while I was planning to test the BY lead like @SteveJ mentioned the engine cranked up fine to my surprise. I did not modify anything, I was seeing the issue last night when I left the car.

I suspect that I am having issue with the inhibitor switch as my A/T selector lever has some play.

I tried again starting the car with the A/T lever in R and D and the car did not start and i hear same clicking in ignition relay.

The car right now is starting fine in the P and N position.

I am about 80% sure it is inhibitor switch acting funky due to this play in the level. Planning to lift the car to tighten it and inspect the switch. Manual says PINs on switch should have continuity at P and N.

I really appreciate everyone hanging in with me.

 

[SteveJ]

Thank you for being willing to reconsider the inhibitor switch. I had a feeling it could be your culprit after what I saw on my friend's car. Starting on page AT-49 in the FSM (page 314 of the huge PDF), you'll see the procedure for testing/adjusting the inhibitor switch.