13 hours ago, Racer X said:

In addition to Clint's reply, ETI4K posted his:

In the fuel injected Zs the tanks had screens to reduce debris from getting pumped to the injectors. The holes in the injectors that the fuel sprays from are very small, and clog easily. Clean fuel is very important.

While at the shop doing the cleaning and relining, the owner said it would be a really good idea to put a filter before the pump and there already has one after the fuel pump ? The shop is in Hemmings motor news West York Radiator/Fuel tank repairs ?

35 minutes ago, Killain said:

While at the shop doing the cleaning and relining, the owner said it would be a really good idea to put a filter before the pump and there already has one after the fuel pump ? The shop is in Hemmings motor news West York Radiator/Fuel tank repairs ?

Yes, adding an additional filter upstream of the fuel pump would be a good idea.

Can you see inside well enough to see if your tank has the screen like the one ETI4K has?

 

If you don't add a filter, then you're relying on the screen at the pump inlet, which is not easy to inspect nor clean.  A clear filter gives you warning that you have a problem developing in your tank.  I mounted my filter with a loop of aluminum tubing to avoid sharp bends in the rubber hose.  I wrapped the tubing with heater hose to avoid chafing problems.

1 hour ago, Racer X said:

Yes, adding an additional filter upstream of the fuel pump would be a good idea.

Can you see inside well enough to see if your tank has the screen like the one ETI4K has?

 

Hi, No you can't look inside very well at all ?  I just have to hope the tank is clear once the liner is in ?

1 hour ago, Killain said:

Hi, No you can't look inside very well at all ?  I just have to hope the tank is clear once the liner is in ?

You should be able to look through the opening the sending unit goes in. Use an inspection mirror and a flashlight.

Yeah I can see only a small area of the inside or the tank. The shop clean/blast/strip both the inside and outside, The liner is a red colored sort of an epoxy like liner. It is bonded to the tank insides, it won't collapse in on itself and the shop took off the 4 pads so I had to use some 2 face tape and a little epoxy myself to reattach the rub blocks or spacers or whatever their called their like 2" X 3", not very soft which I can understand after sitting doing their jobs for the last 47 Years ?  But I expect to hear from the shop about the reinstall of the tank and Howie's looking into converting the R-12 A/C to R-134. . . So I just hope all is going swell. Now that the tank is done ( went out and got 5 gallons of gasoline for him yesterday afternoon, and I bought a new gauge sending unit from www.jdm-car-parts.com and have sent 3 emails asking if they have any instructions or guide as to how to install their $219.00 sending unit, but I never got a reply. Howie's pretty talented, so hopefully he can get it working and reading correctly, just hope it's not like the malaise of the oil pressure gauge, and many other owners have also spoke of a oil pressure gauge that on start-up reads like 60PSI and them once warmed up the pressure reading will drop quite a bit despite having great oil pressure ??? I put a new sending unit on the engine last spring and it still has great oil pressure when cold, but only when you speeding up from a stop shows plenty of pressure at 30 to 50 MPH ? Engine is very quite no matter what so I'm not going to devote too much worry over it ? But the re-awaking process continues !

19 hours ago, Killain said:

Yeah I can see only a small area of the inside or the tank. The shop clean/blast/strip both the inside and outside, The liner is a red colored sort of an epoxy like liner. It is bonded to the tank insides, it won't collapse in on itself and the shop took off the 4 pads so I had to use some 2 face tape and a little epoxy myself to reattach the rub blocks or spacers or whatever their called their like 2" X 3", not very soft which I can understand after sitting doing their jobs for the last 47 Years ?  But I expect to hear from the shop about the reinstall of the tank and Howie's looking into converting the R-12 A/C to R-134. . . So I just hope all is going swell. Now that the tank is done ( went out and got 5 gallons of gasoline for him yesterday afternoon, and I bought a new gauge sending unit from www.jdm-car-parts.com and have sent 3 emails asking if they have any instructions or guide as to how to install their $219.00 sending unit, but I never got a reply. Howie's pretty talented, so hopefully he can get it working and reading correctly, just hope it's not like the malaise of the oil pressure gauge, and many other owners have also spoke of a oil pressure gauge that on start-up reads like 60PSI and them once warmed up the pressure reading will drop quite a bit despite having great oil pressure ??? I put a new sending unit on the engine last spring and it still has great oil pressure when cold, but only when you speeding up from a stop shows plenty of pressure at 30 to 50 MPH ? Engine is very quite no matter what so I'm not going to devote too much worry over it ? But the re-awaking process continues !

The rubber blocks act as insulators between the fuel tank and the body structure. Be sure to place them where they were originally.

The stock oil pressure sending unit isn’t very accurate. Using a good quality mechanical gauge will give a better reading of oil pressure. At idle, an engine just started with cold oil will have higher oil pressure than a hot engine.

The rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm of engine speed. If a hot engine doesn’t have 10 psi at idle, the cause should be investigated.

 

 

On 7/22/2022 at 8:48 AM, Racer X said:

The rubber blocks act as insulators between the fuel tank and the body structure. Be sure to place them where they were originally.

The stock oil pressure sending unit isn’t very accurate. Using a good quality mechanical gauge will give a better reading of oil pressure. At idle, an engine just started with cold oil will have higher oil pressure than a hot engine.

The rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm of engine speed. If a hot engine doesn’t have 10 psi at idle, the cause should be investigated.

 

 

Well I don't know where they were, but I put them back as best my memory serves ? We put the tank in and the new sending unit for the gauge. The low fuel light was on, and that was with the 4.5 gallons of fuel I bought just after the tank was in, and then today I put another 9.3 gallons of Premo 91, so that is 31+ gallons and with that the 'low fuel' light went out, but it only reads about 1/4 tank. So I need to change the gauge and now the speedo isn't working. The trip-o-meter works, but that's no real help. But I got it out on the road and running about even on the expressway and I got to say, this 4 speed "Sucks Big Time" this car came with the 4 speed, but you run out of transmission long before you run low on engine, I wonder if I can put a 5 speed in this 1975 2+2 ? and I need to do a good tune-up, it runs nice at speed, but it has a very slight wobble at idle ?

On 7/23/2022 at 5:10 PM, Killain said:

 But I got it out on the road and running about even on the expressway and I got to say, this 4 speed "Sucks Big Time" this car came with the 4 speed, but you run out of transmission long before you run low on engine, ….

Huh?

If I recall, the 4 speed transmissions are geared to give a reasonable engine speed in top speed on the highway.

What do you mean “run out of transmission”?

 

 

9 hours ago, Racer X said:

Huh?

If I recall, the 4 speed transmissions are geared to give a reasonable engine speed in top speed on the highway.

What do you mean “run out of transmission”?

It just seems to me as not matched very well together. I've driven many, many manuals, and this particular matching of the 2.8 liter 6 cylinder bolted to this 4 speed transmission doesn't work very well, first gear seems too low and by the time you get into 2nd gear your almost ready for 4th gear and once in 4th gear you run out of the top gear at 3000 rpm. It just seems like there is one gear missing at the top end.

 

 

My '72 does way better with the wide B 5 speed. 75mph to 80mph with 15" wheels turns about 2,200rpms in 5th. I had to get the right trans speedo cog to be right but it's right according to a GPS I borrowed from a friend.

@siteunseenWhat gear ratio are you running or did I miss that somewhere 😂🤣