1983 280zx turbo engine

[Captain Obvious]

And about your block rust:

I've got the nipple on the side turned slightly downward to facilitate draining after the evap-o-rust had time to work. And you can see the piece of wire fashioned into a hook to hold the hose up until I'm ready to drain.

Don't shake the shop!! Filled to the brim:

I didn't take any pics of the water pump hole cover at the front, but it's bolted to the block to cover that hole that leads to the front cover. Doesn't have to be fancy. Just something to keep the liquid from leaking out that hole.

[Patcon]

CO, how were the results using that in the block?

[Captain Obvious]

It turned out "just OK", for a number of reasons...

First of all, evap-o-rust works better at warmer temperatures and I was doing this at the end of December in a wood stove heated shop. Because of that, the temperature of the block was cold. Like Pennsylvania December night cold. I had the wood stove cranking and had the air temperature in the shop up to a comfortable working temp, but that big chunk of cast iron was still pretty cold.

Second, I would have liked to have left the evap-o-rust in there longer. Like overnight. But I was afraid that once the stove burned down, it would lose all effectiveness, and/or even freeze. So I had to limit the process to just a couple warm-ish hours.

Third, we did two blocks and the first one we treated with phosphoric acid after the evap-o-rust and it turned out well, but boy did it stink. So I couldn't bring myself to do that a second time in a closed December shop, so the second block (mine) didn't get the phospho treatment.

Bottom line.... I give mine a "5".

I think if it were warmer and I left the evap-o-rust in there longer (24 hours) and then also treated it with phospho after, it would be an "8". Still not as good a hot tanking, but for a block that's not that bad to start with, I think it would suffice.

[Zed Head]

From a chemistry perspective you'd want the solution moving in the block to keep fresh chemicals on the surfaces.  It might be effective to rig up a hose loop from the thermostat outlet to the pump inlet and spin the pump with a drill or even rig up an electric motor and a belt.  That would keep any sediment suspended also as it breaks free.  Of course, the head needs to be on and sealed.

[Patcon]

Or use a little harbor freight aquarium pump with tubes to either end of the block

[Zed Head]

You could probably pull from the top of the open block with a pump like that.

[Dave WM]

oh yes we had fun with evap o rust alright mount Vesuvius any one?

 

Edited July 18, 2022 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

the video missed the major eruption but you get the drift...

o and after CO mentioned the Lathe well you know...

 

[Captain Obvious]

LOL!!! Lathe shaming!! Haha!! You better step up you game! 

So your new version of your plug install tool is pretty much identical to what I made, right down to starting with the cheap seal installer tool. Only difference is that I made my "business end" piece out of Delrin raw material stock instead of modifying one of the pieces that came with the kit. I still haven't tried mine yet.

[Dave WM]

could not help myself. reminds of of the old aftershave commercial with john goodman getting slapped in the face then he responds "thanks I needed that"

🙂

 

[Captain Obvious]

Haha! Well here's hoping your new installer tool works perfect.

So you talked about a Vesuvius eruption, but didn't provide any detail. What happened?

[Dave WM]

oh my... 

yea I did not monitor the vacuum, left it running while the evap o rust was being sucked in (at a rather extreme pace I must say. Anyway eventually the fluid entered my suction line, into the pump and whamo, eruption out of the vent of the pump spewing a nice watery oil mix straight up all over the place, soaked the about a 3 ft radius (just missed my car). ugh...