Seems like every time I go looking for something, it hasn't been manufactured in eons, I was able to sort out a part# A22-602-421, but I'm only finding used, and my luck with used electrical parts has been too great ! Anyone know what this little Nissan orphan might be living ?

There is one there already.  It's in your foot! 😉

 The L-Jetronic EFI system doesn't need one, unless you are trying to re-engineer things.

7 hours ago, TomoHawk said:

The L-Jetronic EFI system doesn't need one, unless you are trying to re-engineer things.

There is a little black box on the throttle axle marked with:A22-602-421 , it's a switch.. it tells the "ecu" if the throttle is opened or not..

Edited June 12, 20222 yr by dutchzcarguy

7 hours ago, Killain said:

I'm only finding used, and my luck with used electrical parts has been too great

Maybe you can open it up and look what's wrong with it? I never looked in one but i always say: it's ALL repairable! haha, but against how high cost i don't know.. Put some pics of the inside here.. (Maybe it's just dirt stopping it from functioning..)

It has only 3 contact, so it's just a switch between 2 positions, maybe the contacts are bad, in need of a clean?

Edited June 12, 20222 yr by dutchzcarguy

2 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

There is a little black box on the throttle axle marked with:A22-602-421 , it's a switch.. it tells the "ecu" if the throttle is opened or not..

You didn't define what you were intending to do with throttle position. But you are essentially correct; it tells the ECU if the the throttle valve is fully closed or fully open.

8 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

There is a little black box on the throttle axle marked with:A22-602-421 , it's a switch.. it tells the "ecu" if the throttle is opened or not..

great, thank you, I'm trying to chase down some of the quirks in the FI and I was able to fix the loopy idle with a rebuilt 'Air Regulator Valve' and now I'm seeing any issues with the intake charge. I'll take mine apart and see if it needs the points cleaned.

They rarely go bad just filing the contacts to shine again and making sure there's no spider webs in there.

I had to bend the arm on mine when I first bought my '77 after reading this great write up with a lot of good photos. Thanks @240260280

https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

17 hours ago, siteunseen said:

just filing the contacts to shine again

In the link i see some pics with silver colored contacts.. just clean those with a cotton cleaning towel or something.. and some contactcleaner.  Never use a file on these contacts!  If the silver is damaged it's gone..

Also, if you see sort of BLACK soot on these contacts it's silveroxide and... you can leave it on!  SILVEROXIDE IS almost as good as silver itself  (if you don't believe this, take a (micro)- Ohmmeter and test the contacts!  Just put some contactspray on them and if this takes of a little of that back stuff that's okay!

 

EDIT: Just googled it and had to change it in: conduction of silveroxide is almost as good as silver ..  There was long a myth that silveroxide was a better conductor than silver.. but it's slichtly worse. (still better than copper i think..)

Also most times when silver oxidises you get silversulfide not oxide.. it lookes very dark brown..  Also "google" said that silveroxide is not made (!).... but it's a black layer.. (very contradicting this!) anyway.. clean it with some contactcleaner that's not to agressive, a clean silver contact should emerge!

Edited June 13, 20222 yr by dutchzcarguy

17 hours ago, Killain said:

I'm trying to chase down some of the quirks in the FI and I was able to fix the loopy idle with a rebuilt 'Air Regulator Valve' and now I'm seeing any issues with the intake charge.

Also look twice(!) for airleaks in the system particularly that fat rubber hose after the airregulator, and in front of engine. Right inbetween those fat rings that are in that tube are the leaks! (A very minor leak can make the engine run very unregular.)