Making replacing your windshield yourself easier.

[zKars]

Many of us have learned to replace windshields ourselves. This thread is not so much a tutorial on the whole process, there are great threads for that else where.  

I just to add a method that will make the generally accepted technique of using a rope in the pinch weld groove to pull the inner lip over the pinch weld, into an actual pleasant experience rather than a test of will and strength.  

Here we go. Just tried this today on a 510 rear windshield after a common struggle with the front. The experience on the back was heavenly. 

 

 

[zKars]

Here is the statement of the problem I “usually” have. 

I start by pulling the bottom lip, from the center in each direction, and eventually work around to the top center to finish. The bottom and sides usually go just fine, but that top, that dang top, it almost always wants to sit out too far, no matter what experienced helper I have pushing gallantly from the outside to keep its a$$ in place, it just wants to stick out just far enough to make pulling the lip over the pinch weld a real tough deal.

Yes I make sure the gasket in fully seated deep in the opening to start, keep pushing it down as you work around, it all looks great until you get to those top corners and around to the top. I always get it, but its more work.  Don’t get me started about that dang hatch glass, that gasket has a smaller and stiff lip that is really hard to get over the pinch weld than the front and the  top is usually a real nasty deal to finish. 

I have tried starting at the top, but gravity works against you the bottom now wants to stick out more than ever. 

[zKars]

Ok, this will seem real obvious when i say it, you’re going to kick yourself for not thinking of it, but here goes.

Use two ropes. Start center top AND center bottom. Pull the bottom left and right a little, pull the top left and right a little, keep working out to the edges. Stop about an inch short of the sides. Keep prying the gasket all the way over the pinch weld with a flat plastic tool all the way across the top and bottom. Just put the tool between glass and gasket, and push the gasket down and toward you, away from the glass, and push it down hard over the pinch weld to seat it fully. Do not pry against the glass, no need to, you are pushing the rubber lip all the way (down at the bottom, up at the top) over the pinch weld.

Once both top AND bottom lips are pulled over the pinch weld and seated, that sucker is trapped in place. 

Now go around the bottom two corners and up the two sides with the two separate ropes and finish by going around the top corners. Bang you’re done. 

I did the rear glass by myself. Did not require any outside pressure. Yes I went out a couple of times and taped the glass/gasket to help it lay as deep and flat as it can. Did not struggle in any way shape or form. Took under 10 minutes from start of pulling. 

Z windshields “should” work just as well. They have more curvature, maybe a friend to help keep the gasket/glass flat and seated deeply as you pull both top and bottom over the lip. Should have some to do this summer, will keep you posted. 

 

Edited July 18, 2022 by zKars

[dutchzcarguy]

I think the "2 ropes idea" is not so bad with a flat or almost flat glass but when it's like a front 240z windscreen that wants to break i think.. and will.. because halfway the pressure gets to much..

But.. nice thinking and experimenting is always interesting.. but i would do the 1 rope way.

[zKars]

Just to add a couple of details that make this job easier for me.

Tools.

1. Getting the rope in the groove. If getting one rope in the groove is tough for you, and my suggestion of using two ropes gives you the willies, then use this trick

Go buy a 6 inch piece of 1/4 OD brass or aluminum thin wall tubing from a hobby supplier. Stuff your 3/16 rope through it (I flared one end to make it easier) and use this stiff piece of tubing to poke the rope into the groove (use the un-flared end), then just draw the tubing along the groove feeding rope into it as you pull it along. Keep it poked deep in the groove as you go. Should take you under 60 sec to get the rope all the way around and tucked in real pretty.  

[zKars]

Tool #2.

Using a rope to get the rubber lip over the pinch weld as you pull the rope out,  is the secret to the rope trick of course. As long as you have the glass and gasket pushed as far down into the window opening as you can, the rubber lip will be as close as it can be to the pinch weld. Then when you start pulling the lip over the pinch weld, there will be enough lip to get over the pinch weld and stay there as you move around.

But still, the initial “get the lip over” is rarely ALL the way over the pinch weld and down as far as it CAN go, and MUST go to get the whole thing properly seated. If the glass and gasket are not down in the opening as far they can go then the lip is too far away from the pinch weld and very little if any of the lip is going over the pinch weld when you pull the rope out. If you find this to be case, don’t bother going ahead, take the glass back out and re-set from the start.

If you have replaced the vinyl trim on the top or sides, and have it lovingly glued to the pinch weld, and have used modern replacement vinyl, chances are that stuff is thicker than the original stock vinyl making the pinch weld even thicker and tougher to get the rubber over and seated.

Get a buddy to push in the gasket/window from the outside at the place you pulling rope, to KEEP the thing in down and in place as you push the rope out to keep the gasket and pinch weld as close as possible. You can lube the gasket so slides closer easier. More on this later. 

Assuming you get the lip over the pinch weld enough so that it stays, I immediately starting pushing it down over the pinch weld further using my flat plastic stick. THrough experimenting, I don’t just push on the rubber to force it down over the pinch weld, I stuff it between the glass and lip pointing nearly down and flat, pushing it along flat tip first, right behind my rope pulling, which forces the rubber lip downward further over the pinch weld as I go. I’ve never felt like I’m pushing hard on the glass or in any danger of breaking it. Almost all the force is parallel the glass surface and downward onto the rubber lip. 

This tool and others are part of a generic set of plastic clip and panel removal tools you can get from many auto stores and Amazon and such. Anything long and flat and tapered will do. And Plastic of course.

Edited July 18, 2022 by zKars

[zKars]

Tool #3:  Lubricant

When I first starting doing my glass, I followed almost all the on-line advice and used soapy water and / or window cleaner spray (windex or Invisible glass) to lube the rubber to help get it on the glass to start, and to get the gasket and rope to slide and slip easier during installation.

I quickly found this was a messy and relatively in-effective thing to do. Both evaporate quickly and are never where and when you need them when you need it. I went dry from that point on. For one thing, keeping the gasket on the glass and having it stay there while you work on getting it all on the glass is someplace I want MORE friction to keep it in place, not less. And I have to problem pulling rope out of dry groove and if I spend time getting the whole thing settled into the window opening BEFORE I start pulling (see above about pinch weld distance) then being dry is just fine. 

BUT, that said, if I found a “better” lubricant, I’d use it. I think I have my holy grail on this as well.

Baby powder. Well, actually Corn Starch. Dry, cheap, stays in place, wipes, blows or washed away when you’re done, and most importantly, takes away all rubber tackyness. A little goes a long way. Dip a finger in the powder, rub it on the rubber to leave a  very very thin white dusting of powder where you want it.

If you want to use Baby powder go for it, but you better be able to explain that pretty smell to your significant other…

 

I’m looking forward to using it on the SS trim groove as well, to help get that nasty stuff in place a little easier.

Edited July 18, 2022 by zKars

[zKars]

Tool #4

More of a technique. Pulling the rope around the corners. That top corner on an S30 is real pointy. But all you have to do is make circles with the rope as you pull it. Move in as big a circle as you can with about 2-3 inches of rope between your finger and the rubber. Rotate in the direction that moves the rope along the easiest. Watch the rope where it goes into the rubber to see which direction I mean, generally CW if your moving right to left at the bottom left corner for example. Keep making circles while you pull. 

And tool #4a, wear a leather glove while pulling rope, takes the pain away from the rope ripping into your delicate little patties with the rope wrapped around the digits and palm. You can concentrate better and whine less.

[cgsheen1]

I use cotton twine (rope) and wet it before inserting it in the groove. It's amazing how it cuts the rope friction pulling it out of the rubber (and makes pulling those corners easier). My son and I generally tackle windshield and hatch glass together but I'm going to try your solo method - sounds solid.