If you use these will the fuse box cover still fit?

9 minutes ago, w3wilkes said:

If you use these will the fuse box cover still fit?

I would be shocked if it did. There is only about 3 or 4 mm clearance above the fuses in the fusebox.

On 8/30/2022 at 10:21 AM, SteveJ said:

I would be shocked if it did. There is only about 3 or 4 mm clearance above the fuses in the fusebox.

Did anyone ever figure out if these will fit under the fuse cover?  I've got the MSA blade $etup laying around, but it's a shame they didn't make it smaller and fit the stock fuse cover.  Also searched and can't find the ones mentioned in the pinned thread above.

I'm sure the cover is not gonna fit..

If i had no fuses anymore i would simply solder a new one (spade) onto the old broken fuse..  (maybe take a bit off of the fuse spades first..)

So don't throw those old fuses away, they make a perfect platform to solder the new fuse to.  (And no one else thought about this.. hihi.. 🙊)

Edited November 7, 20222 yr by dutchzcarguy

1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

I'm sure the cover is not gonna fit..

If i had no fuses anymore i would simply solder a new one (spade) onto the old broken fuse..  (maybe take a bit off of the fuse spades first..)

So don't throw those old fuses away, they make a perfect platform to solder the new fuse to.  (And no one else thought about this.. hihi.. 🙊)

Interesting! If the plastic ATO fuse body survives the soldering heat as well as the internal fusible metal, then this is actually not a bad idea! I will get my soldering iron out today for sure.

Imagine the fun of intentionally shorting a 12v battery across a bunch of AGC fuses to blow them up for use! Zap Zap!

And the verdict is in. Yes you “Can”, but “Should you?”

First attempt, not very neat, managed to break the glass, which should be left intact for structural integrity.

The need to add a wire to bridge the distance gap is the biggest weakness of this approach.

And yes you have to be careful with the heat on the plastic ATO fuse.

And it was fun zapping the AGC fuse on a battery first. Does get hot, watch delicate pinkies

 

Edited November 7, 20222 yr by zKars

The idea is out there.  Here's a variation.  Bulky but it might offer some ideas. 

Seems like you might have better luck converting the positions in the fuse box than converting the individual fuses.  The holders in the fuse box are the springy part.

https://www.grainger.com/product/6AYJ0?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=CjwKCAiA9qKbBhAzEiwAS4yeDQqc4F5Bya6JJlINW2P3G8rLEGyJOnfxtQIBQnXVY2zk-TjujkuiohoC4iIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

21 hours ago, zKars said:

Interesting! If the plastic ATO fuse body survives the soldering heat

In the 1980's i had to learn soldering some wires to ReVox A77 and B77 taperecorder heads..  just enough heat to make a perfect connection.. i soldered A LOT  but those were the most problematic.. But after a few ones i got the OK from my colleges.

plukked from the internet.. 😉   The wires need to have a nice blob of shiny tin on them..

A little to much heat and your really are F---ed!  🤬

17 hours ago, zKars said:

First attempt, not very neat, managed to break the glass, which should be left intact for structural integrity.

I was laughing out very loud when i saw this Hihi ...  but you finished the job!  Yeah, soldering can be a challenge!

In my mind the 2 spades were more wider.. maybe you could cut half the inside parts of them and bow the outer part of the spades to the outside and solder those to the 2 ends of the defect glass fuse.  Use a soldering element of about 30-40 watt or a good regulated one otherwise you will break the glass.. again 

Okay, so this showed up in my FB feed today after looking at this thread yesterday...

I was also using Google to search for different fuse mounts. I'm really missing the days of thumbing through paper catalogs.

I had to try this idea. It works”, but I don’t think it will be a good solution. Not enough contact area between the fuse blades and the slit in the brass tubing.

I used 1/4 OD, .029 wall thickness brass tubing, with 3/16 OD plastic tubing as the non-conductive bridge. Cut slits in the tubing with a oscillating saw blade, squeezed it shut, then stuffed a fuse into it. The tube sections are 1/2” long, overall is 1.25”

For higher current circuits, 15 amp and over, I don’t think the poor/small contact between the blades and edge of the slit in the brass tubing is enough to keep heat from becoming an issue. It works, you can keep a couple in the glove box with ATO fuses and get home if you had to.

Edited November 8, 20222 yr by zKars

How about crimping?  A crimp will still offer better contact than the spring pressure of the fuse holder metal.  All you need is contact area for heat transfer.