Time to replace the rear suspension bushings in the 260Z

[SteveJ]

I purchased the Energy Suspension bushing kit a LONG time ago. (I'm thinking it was about 8 years ago or so.)

I put the car up in the air earlier this year, but I realized the scissor lift made it where the exhaust was in the way.

I finally put the car up in the air with the QuickJacks. (Don't buy a lift that has a crossmember at the top.)

So I was looking it over carefully since this is definitely not an area of expertise for me. I sprayed some Kroil on various bolts and nuts that will need to be turned, and I think I worked out my plan of attack.

1. Lower the exhaust and support it out of the way.
2. Remove the rear sway bar.
3. Attack the moustache bar.
4. Attack the crossmember, supporting the differential with a jack as needed.
5. Remove the inner LCA bushings
6. Replace the bushings on the mustache bar, crossmember, and inner control arms.
7. Pray and contemplate developing a relationship with alcohol.
8. Attack the spindle pins.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. (In the Haines manual tradition)

Thoughts, criticisms, advice?

[Jeff G 78]

The rear bushings aren't that bad other than the outers.  You will need to get the old mustache bar bushings out.  Fire is messy, but works.  Good luck!

[SteveJ]

On the advice of a friend, I bought a transmission jack from Harbor Freight to hold up the differential. The nice part is that my 20% off coupon was good to use for buying it. The coupon said jacks were excluded, but I guess it meant hydraulic jacks. I also took the opportunity to buy a set of 3/8 impact sockets, and at Home Depot I picked up a compact 3/8 impact gun. Now to find what bolts are uncooperative.

[SteveJ]

1 hour ago, Jeff G 78 said:

The rear bushings aren't that bad other than the outers.  You will need to get the old mustache bar bushings out.  Fire is messy, but works.  Good luck!

I have a 20 ton press and plenty of sockets. I may be able to push out the old rubber. I did see videos on using fire to have one's way with those bushings.

Edited September 5, 2022 by SteveJ

[Captain Obvious]

So I assume from the banter about burning out the mustache bushing... I'm assuming you're putting poly in the old shells?

And if you've got the hydraulic press, dealing with the outer rear bushings isn't that difficult either. Getting something fixtured square and supported correctly underneath is always the hardest part. In other words, once your sure you are getting all the force on the correct parts and in the correct direction, the rest is usually easy.

[SteveJ]

Yes, sir. I am putting poly bushings in. This may be interesting. 

[Captain Obvious]

Wait... Poly everywhere? I sure hope you can still get some rubber stuff.

[SteveJ]

43 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Wait... Poly everywhere? I sure hope you can still get some rubber stuff.

I'm only working on the rear at this time. It's almost impossible to get rubber anymore.

[Jeff G 78]

2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

And if you've got the hydraulic press, dealing with the outer rear bushings isn't that difficult either. Getting something fixtured square and supported correctly underneath is always the hardest part. In other words, once your sure you are getting all the force on the correct parts and in the correct direction, the rest is usually easy.

I made an attachment for my spindle pin puller to pull the outer bushings with the arms still on the car.  Supporting the arms in a press is a tricky job and if not done properly, it's easy to bend the arms.  Pulling them is much easier!

[SteveJ]

8 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

I made an attachment for my spindle pin puller to pull the outer bushings with the arms still on the car.  Supporting the arms in a press is a tricky job and if not done properly, it's easy to bend the arms.  Pulling them is much easier!

Good to know. I also purchased a ball joint press. I could experiment with that, too.

[Captain Obvious]

9 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

Supporting the arms in a press is a tricky job and if not done properly, it's easy to bend the arms.  Pulling them is much easier!

Actually it doesn't matter which side the force comes from. If it's not supported correctly, you run the risk of bending something. And you're not really "pulling", you're just pushing on the other side.     In order to PULL it, you would need to put the bushing shell in tension, and you're not.

So pedantic aside... The bottom line is you are correct. You need to support the correct area and press in a normal direction in the correct different area.

[Jeff G 78]

36 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Actually it doesn't matter which side the force comes from. If it's not supported correctly, you run the risk of bending something. And you're not really "pulling", you're just pushing on the other side.     In order to PULL it, you would need to put the bushing shell in tension, and you're not.

So pedantic aside... The bottom line is you are correct. You need to support the correct area and press in a normal direction in the correct different area.

You are correct sir.  The bushing tool (I won't call it a puller) was supposed to push on the outer shell, but the sleeves are so thin, that it proved hard to do with the socket I used as a pusher.  The first side came out that way, but it slipped a bunch of times and I'd have to square it back up.  For the next one, I tried a smaller socket that just pushed on the center sleeve.  I thought it would tear the rubber, but instead, the bushings slid right out.  Had I turned a press tool with non-radiused edges, it would be able to catch the thin outer shell better.  Overall, I got the bushings out with no damage while still on the car and it took less than an hour for all four.  My pics are on another computer, so I'll update the thread later with the pics.