The advice given by the group about removing the plugs and holding full throttle while letting the starter turn 10 seconds or so is what I do. I don't think it would hurt to do another compression test, hot and cold. Fully charged battery too. I don't typically remove the coil wire but I can see where it would be a good idea.

  On 10/20/2023 at 3:05 PM, jonathanrussell said:

The advice given by the group about removing the plugs and holding full throttle while letting the starter turn 10 seconds or so is what I do. I don't think it would hurt to do another compression test, hot and cold. Fully charged battery too. I don't typically remove the coil wire but I can see where it would be a good idea.

What I’ve found is, (with the flamethrower coil especially) if you don’t have anywhere for the spark to go, it “finds” a way to ground either through the cap or arcing anywhere it can. I once did something similar in the dark and had a “plasma ball engine bay” :D

So now I always disconnect the positive and / or negative off the coil first.

@jalexquijano If you'd like someone in Panama City to check out your carbs there's a JDM shop there. Also, look into any British or Volvo repair shop that has an older mechanic. Volvos used Hitachi SUs (I think) and any older British mechanic should know SUs inside and out.. 

 

Could you take a photo of your Pertronix coil (3ohm or 1.5ohm) wiring plus the resistor if you are using one.

Also which Pertronix you purchased.

I would like to look at that. I have installed 2 of those so far. One is on mine.

  On 10/20/2023 at 8:08 PM, Mark Maras said:

@jalexquijano If you'd like someone in Panama City to check out your carbs there's a JDM shop there. Also, look into any British or Volvo repair shop that has an older mechanic. Volvos used Hitachi SUs (I think) and any older British mechanic should know SUs inside and out.. 

The problem is not the carbs. They were completely remanufactured in 2014 by ztherapy.

  On 10/20/2023 at 10:24 PM, jalexquijano said:

The problem is not the carbs. They were completely remanufactured in 2014 by ztherapy.

Just because they are refurbished does not mean they are set up properly. If the float levels, mixture and balance aren't right it's gonna foul plugs.

It might be interesting to try to get a matchbox dizzy and dump the Pertronix. I have had mixed results with Pertronix. I wouldn't use one on my car anymore.

 Yeah, I remember they were ZTherapy carbs. What I was wondering was how many times have they been adjusted (specifically balance and float level) and if they were adjusted properly.

 Last year we were dealing with #4 fouling and I thought (at least in my mind) that the problem was somewhere in the cap, rotor, wire, wire connection, and plug, all of which were replaced with quality parts. So, I was left thinking it was a bad sparkplug wire connection. Now we've got five plugs fouling. What happened between then and now? Any thoughts or explanations?

Should i start with a dry compression test with brand new ngk bp5es installed?

Could be bad gas from sitting.

 

 

This diagram illustrates the importance of float level adjustment. The float level determines the level of the fuel in the jet and thats really important in tuning. If SU would have given us a sight glass on the carb bowl we would have a lot less to argue about online 🤣

 

  On 10/20/2023 at 11:39 PM, jalexquijano said:

Should i start with a dry compression test with brand new ngk bp5es installed?

I'd leave brand new plugs out for compression test. Motor turns freely but the test fitting will build psi. Do all six the same test procedure. No variant possibility.  All the same. Stay focused.

Coil plugged or unplugged?