Let's be careful here.  Jalex posted a photo of the choke cable for one carb, illustrating two cable screws:  the #1 screw (upper screw in the photo) is the one that clamps the choke cable's outer casing to the carb; the #2 screw (bottom screw in the photo) is the one that clamps the choke cable wire to the choke cable linkage.  The way I read it, he was asking whether he should loosen both the #1 and #2 screws on both carbs (which, of course, would lead to brand new problems).

So, JAlex:  If you're reading this, when Mark Maras tells you to loosen 'both screws', he means that you should loosen the #2 screw on both the front and rear carbs.  Do not loosen the #1 screw.

when I adjusted my choke cable on the 4 bolt carbs same as yours, I left the choke lever to the off position. now with the choke nozzle all the way up I just lowered the lever a touch and then tighten up the screw that holds the cable #2 screw. now with full choke on and cold start I will rev 2500 rpms and with the choke in the off position I am down to 700rpms. hope this helps

Simple said.... you lieve the screw on the outer cable alone!  The screw on the INNER steel wire THAT's the screw that adjusts the choke..  

19 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

When you say push the choke knob do you mean pull the lever 1 cm back and the tighten the 2 screws of each carb?

I believe so.

FWIW... I have found those OEM choke cable boots problematic over the years in terms of causing extra friction and making it difficult to ascertain free movement.

If you don't have a partner to serve as an extra set of eyes, I would find a way place your phone under the carburetors and film while you move the choke lever back and forth to check for free play and if both cables are moving equally.

Edited August 13, 2024Aug 13 by DatsunZGuy

7 hours ago, DatsunZGuy said:

I believe so.

FWIW... I have found those OEM choke cable boots problematic over the years in terms of causing extra friction and making it difficult to ascertain free movement.

If you don't have a partner to serve as an extra set of eyes, I would find a way place your phone under the carburetors and film while you move the choke lever back and forth to check for free play and if both cables are moving equally.

The thing here is that you have to pull the choke lever to 3/4 from starting position for the fuel nozzles to begin lowering. When choke lever is  maxed it reaches to 1300 rpm. There must be a way of setting this easier.

Is the car hard to start when it's cold??

If not, then there's not a problem!!

If it's not broken, don't break it!

you need to lift the choke lever under the carbs until it just starts to pull down the nozzle and then back off just a touch then tighten screw#2

1 hour ago, kully 560 said:

you need to lift the choke lever under the carbs until it just starts to pull down the nozzle and then back off just a touch then tighten screw#2

Ok. thanks! Ill follow your advice. Ill get this sorted with a partner. She will pull the choke and i will place my hands in both fuel nozzles. 

you do not need anybody to do this!!! you need to do one carb at a time !! now disconnect the cable from the #2 screw let the choke lever on the carb drop down and then lift up that lever until it just barley starts to pull down the nozzle, then lift it back up so the nozzle is seated. now just drop the choke lever down just a touch and retighten the # 2 screw. do this on both carbs and you choke will be fine!

if you do use a color tune to adjust the fuel mixture, the disconnect the choke cables completely and let them hang.

The thing here is that i have checked both fuel nozzles and with the choke lever closed both nozzles are shut. If i start moving the lever back the fuel nozzles begin lowering when it reaches 3/4 of the lever and fully open reaches 1400 rpm. Why should i start messing with the cable?

Doesn’t sound like you have a choke problem. I have been following the thread and you might want to go back and look what others have suggested concerning the ignition?