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Still struggling with car at idle after 8 years


jalexquijano

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3 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Doesn’t sound like you have a choke problem. I have been following the thread and you might want to go back and look what others have suggested concerning the ignition?

Thanks. Lets wait for other members opinion before i reinstall the air filter and new spark plugs. My problem arises only when car is at idle during traffic. Anyway i have no problem on carrying the test again. Maybe a bigger spark during idle can avoid the plugs from fouling.

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34 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

The thing here is that i have checked both fuel nozzles and with the choke lever closed both nozzles are shut. If i start moving the lever back the fuel nozzles begin lowering when it reaches 3/4 of the lever and fully open reaches 1400 rpm. Why should i start messing with the cable?

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 Don't touch it if you don't have trouble starting it in cold weather.

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Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Will Pertronix ignition make the tach twitchy when it's going bad?

When the car is idling during traffic jam the rpm needle starts to move a little bit  up and down until you accelerate and get out of traffic.  Im using ngk bpes5 plugs.

Edited by jalexquijano
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8 hours ago, Yarb said:

Doesn’t sound like you have a choke problem. I have been following the thread and you might want to go back and look what others have suggested concerning the ignition?

What would be your approach? Whats wrong with 1761 pertronix module and 1.5 coil?

.

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8 hours ago, Yarb said:

They might have gone bad is @siteunseen point.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000N2ZFU0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2L97JA8DAGJXC&psc=1

Would you recommend buying a new 1.5 coil and another module? Price have gone high nowadays. I really dont want to buy unnecesary parts. My problem is mainly fouling at idle.

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There's all kinds of testing you can do, you've missed some and some have missed you but you have gone ahead and shot the parts cannon at it for no reason.

There's ways to test the spark at the plug and check resistance at the coil.

"We" would like nothing other than your problems resolved and ending this, FYI.

It may be as simple as the distributor cap and worn rotor button?

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6 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

There's all kinds of testing you can do, you've missed some and some have missed you but you have gone ahead and shot the parts cannon at it for no reason.

There's ways to test the spark at the plug and check resistance at the coil.

"We" would like nothing other than your problems resolved and ending this, FYI.

It may be as simple as the distributor cap and worn rotor button?

Ive already changed the distributor cap and rotor several times. May i should test the car now that i have released the tightness on the upper screws of both choke cables and report.

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