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5 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 A temporary solution is to turn off the engine when you're not moving. Yes. you may have to restart it to move 20' before you turn it off again but I used this method for years in hot weather and traffic jams. It prevented overheating. Idling builds engine heat. BTW, what type of fan are you using?

The original fan clutch and plastic shroud



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 Hopefully, someone can tell Jalex how to test the fan coupling. After my coupling froze up I replaced it with a flex fan. There don't seem to be many flex fan fans around here but it was, IMO, an improvement over the stock fan. Nowadays I would probably go with an electric fan.

Remove the choke cable from both carbs. Make sure the jets are in the fully up position. Drive it.

See how everything goes. That eliminates any issues with the choke.

I wouldnt be surprised if the fan clutch is bad. When its hot take a rooled up newspaper and touch the fan blades. If it stops easily, its toast. Get a new one.  I just bought a made in Japan one for $64 from Zcar depot. My car was fine in the spring, and recently I took it out in the hot weather and noticed it heating up when going slow. Clutch wasnt doing anything.

1 hour ago, Mark Maras said:

 Hopefully, someone can tell Jalex how to test the fan coupling. After my coupling froze up I replaced it with a flex fan. There don't seem to be many flex fan fans around here but it was, IMO, an improvement over the stock fan. Nowadays I would probably go with an electric fan.

Mine has a white plastic fan and shroud. Fan clutch was replaced in 2015. I only use this car on sundays for close drives.

3 hours ago, Patcon said:

That distributor looks like a good option

" 3.0 ohm coil required with ballast resistor delete"

What about using it with the current resistor and 1.5 coil?

3 hours ago, Patcon said:

Are you using the ballast resistor?

If not, it seems foolish to not follow the manufacturers instructions

Of course im using the ballast resistor.

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