11 hours ago, Patcon said:

Asking the question different ways isn't going to change my answer...

That's a good one..  Obviously there is something very wrong with that engine and i think it needs to come completely apart to find it.. maybe a crack in the cylinderwalls or so i don't know, all i know that jalex needs a good technician who is familiar with the L24..

2 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

That's a good one..  Obviously there is something very wrong with that engine and i think it needs to come completely apart to find it.. maybe a crack in the cylinderwalls or so i don't know, all i know that jalex needs a good technician who is familiar with the L24..

Well in Panama nobody knows or wants to deal with these carb fueled engines. I thought i could test the other dizzy i have just removing and inserting it in the same position where the actual dizzy is. My mechanic says the engine needs to be opened and taken to machine shop. Thats all i know.

Here are the photos of a broken valve guide I was looking for. They can also be just cracked and allow

alot of oil into the cylinder.

A distributor will not change anything going on with yours.

6 minutes ago, gundee said:

Here are the photos of a broken valve guide I was looking for. They can also be just cracked and allow

alot of oil into the cylinder.

A distributor will not change anything going on with yours.

Thanks so much Gundee. 

I really dont want to spend money buying a distributor or messing with it  if mine is fully working. I prefer investing in the parts i will need once the head is cracked open. What i really dont want to do is open the engine and then find out there are no parts locally here in Panama. I prefer buying those parts in advance.  Which set of gasket would you recommend? 

Do you think a temporary solution would be installing a spark plug non fouler? 

On 9/24/2024 at 11:50 AM, gundee said:

Here are the photos of a broken valve guide I was looking for. They can also be just cracked and allow

alot of oil into the cylinder.

A distributor will not change anything going on with yours.

Gundee,

Since i decided to break the engine and remove the cylinder head. Should i order a new set of valves, valve guides and seals?  These are the specification of the engine. The only thing we have changed are the rocker arms and replaced the cam to a schneider 274F cam.

On 8/12/2024 at 8:39 AM, emccallum said:

What you really need to check is that  the choke nozzle is fully seated (up) into the carb with choke off.  Black thing in the picture. Then put the choke on and check the nozzles, they should pull down, away from the carb. Do that a few times to make sure they arent hanging up. If the little rubber fuel lines are stiff, that can make them hang up. 

You can loosen the screw at the cable and push up on the nozzles to make sure they are seated (blue arrow), then tighten. Fast idle is adjusted from a different place. 

The main thing is the nozzle seating all the way with the choke lever off. 

 

Hi,

Is this the correct method of adjusting both choke cables on my 72 240z? i guess i must have a lot of slack as if i pull the lever all the way back i get to 1,300 rpms only.  Need a deeper explanation or video. 

On 10/23/2023 at 10:27 PM, gundee said:

Ok you are good on the coil. It was upside down and we could not see that. I am sure the resistor is good as well.

What you need to do next is pull the red wire off the coil (looks like that is where it is) and put it on the resistor side i showed. That gets you full

12V from the ignition sw. Yes it can run that way but not correctly.

The Pertronix instructions are not clear for your Z as its written for all 12V negative ground cars.

The term crank and run are not the same. Cranking is turning over the engine to start.

When it starts, then it is running.

You will have to get a twin connector to replace the single connector on the resistor side with the black/white wire.

Those two wires get connected to the same side of the resistor primary. That is the 12V from the ignition switch.

Do this and hang on when you drive it.

Hi Gundee,

Today i noticed a strange noise coming from the car at low rpms meaning lower than 2000 rpm. Like a vibration noise. It seems the black wire that is connected to the coil and goes to the air conditioner evapotator causes this. Coil is measuring 1.6 ohms and resistor measures 2.1 ohms although it gets hot as hell during traffic jams. Really dont want to spend money with an ac shop to fix this. Maybe there is a way around this. 

Something isn't right. You should only have 1 wire to the negative of the coil unless you are using a tachometer from a 74 or later Z.

Im using a 1761 petronix module no points directly to the distributor and a 1.5 ohm petronix coil. Instructions were never clear.

If your not “using a later model tach from a 74 or later year model, There should only be one wire on the negative side of the coil.”

6 minutes ago, Yarb said:

If your not “using a later model tach from a 74 or later year model, There should only be one wire on the negative side of the coil.”

The one circled was fastened there by the guys who installed the Ac in my car. I had to unplug this wire as it waa causing a horrible noise that came from the blowe of the ac inside the car. Ballast resistor measured 2.1 ohms.

Which wires you want me to remove from the coil?

This thread seems to have gone awry.  Are Jalexquijano and Johnny wick the same person?  How did the name get changed?  And how did 72 Datsun 240z get inserted in here?  Is this our new AI world?

...just took a look around and see that Jalex and Johnny wick are the same.  Did not know that a person could erase their screen name from the past and take on a new identity.  Weird stuff!!