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240Z restorations, what's right and what's not


SpeedRoo

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13 hours ago, siteunseen said:

There's one with a single dot, the others have two. I'd like to learn more

The one with the single dot is a "misprint" the other dot just fell "into the groove".. (Haha..madonna!!) 😂  I don't know why it has 2 dots.. maybe someone wanted to give their nuts and bolts this so they can recognize their own bolts and screws? (or maybe they are extra hard or strong..)

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13 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I learned something new today. I've never noticed the dot on the heads of screws but found it interesting and then I saw this picture that @HS30-H posted and was perplexed (as usual) by the dots in his photo. There's one with a single dot, the others have two. I'd like to learn more. Hopefully someone knows the story better?

Since that's an electrical part from a Works rally car, I would not place too much faith in any level of industrial standardisation being directly applicable. They are a law unto themselves!

A lot of that stuff was either hand-made or involved some level of modification over stock. I doubt the dots on those screw heads are anything to do with JIS standards.

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What's the correct finish for the rear hubs, BAT car has them painted?

image.jpeg

 

They look to be unpainted in the service manual, other than the center piece that is exposed when the brake drum is fitted.

image.png

Edited by SpeedRoo
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Hi, these pictures might be helpful for this discussion.From Motor Magazine February 1970 . We can confirm parts, colors, how they are fitted by workers in assembly lines. Although this car is a L20 model but mostly the same parts are used for a L24 models.
But this white Fairlady Z-L is a bit early made to compare with the BAT car.
Because of absence of the hood bumpers, and the shape of the small rubber tab of the inspection lid . This indicates this white car could be very early like made in October 1969. 

Kats

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We discussed this before, early 4 steps of the inspection lid.

January 1970 would have #3 version of the lid which has a tab welded to the lid. Seems to me the BAT car has a #4 version which is designed in ONE PIECE with the small tab. Also a rubber cushion is attached a little bit different style from #4 version.

So, if this HLS30-01606 has the #4 lid from the beginning, I will tend to think January 1970 was a very complicated month for our Z cars. And this car could be very late of January or maybe touching February .

Do we think tar mats on the rear deck was applied from January 1970 ? I am curious about it.

 I must say this first, this BAT car is an incredible car with a lot of time and money , and passion were put in. Nice car !

Kats

 


 

Kats

 

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A couple of things I noticed, not to be critical but in the interest of correctness on this early car, 

can be seen in picture #113.  The lower door rubber seal appears to be installed with the seal flange 

outboard instead of inboard of the door bottom.  Also, the door dovetail striker  below the latch is

the later, universal dovetail with the beefier mounting hole opening.  The earlier dovetails had thinner

mounting hole openings which tended to crack under use.  The earlier dovetails were also side specific,

ie., left and right.

In picture #115, the inner rocker scuff plates should be mounted with 5 Phillips screws, not the three

used on later series cars.  A drill will remedy this.  And, the door weatherstripping  appears to be a 

replacement tubular seal as opposed to a more accurate reproductions available in the market. 

this is indeed a beautifully restored car touched by Pierre, the master of Z reincarnations.
 


 

 

 

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Hi Dan, I didn’t know that ! Need five screws on the scuff plate, I need to have them correctly on my cars.

Hi SpeedRoo, I have never expected that newer NISSAN logo on the windshield, it means we were able to buy the windshield from a local Nissan dealership quite recently? 
 

The door glass would be supplied from another car , ZCCA judges can tell it at one glance.

Kats

7D279D62-AC82-4E83-B0FB-90BDB555B83B.jpeg

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11 hours ago, AZ-240z said:

A couple of things I noticed, not to be critical but in the interest of correctness on this early car, 

can be seen in picture #113.  The lower door rubber seal appears to be installed with the seal flange 

outboard instead of inboard of the door bottom.  Also, the door dovetail striker  below the latch is

the later, universal dovetail with the beefier mounting hole opening.  The earlier dovetails had thinner

mounting hole openings which tended to crack under use.  The earlier dovetails were also side specific,

ie., left and right.

In picture #115, the inner rocker scuff plates should be mounted with 5 Phillips screws, not the three

used on later series cars.  A drill will remedy this.  And, the door weatherstripping  appears to be a 

replacement tubular seal as opposed to a more accurate reproductions available in the market. 

this is indeed a beautifully restored car touched by Pierre, the master of Z reincarnations.
 


 

 

 

Great observations, appreciate you taking the time to comment. helps me get all the little things right on my cars. One correct I think they may be 5 JIS screws not Phillips.

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7 hours ago, kats said:

Hi Dan, I didn’t know that ! Need five screws on the scuff plate, I need to have them correctly on my cars.

Hi SpeedRoo, I have never expected that newer NISSAN logo on the windshield, it means we were able to buy the windshield from a local Nissan dealership quite recently? 
 

The door glass would be supplied from another car , ZCCA judges can tell it at one glance.

Kats

7D279D62-AC82-4E83-B0FB-90BDB555B83B.jpeg

Which code on the window shows it as 1973 Kats?

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13 hours ago, AZ-240z said:

...the door dovetail striker  below the latch is the later, universal dovetail with the beefier mounting hole opening.  The earlier dovetails had thinner mounting hole openings which tended to crack under use.  The earlier dovetails were also side specific, ie., left and right.

 


 

 

 

Those early door dovetail strikers are made of cheap metal and they just disintegrate.  And they are really hard to find!  The stainless repros perform much better.

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