On 12/5/2022 at 6:29 PM, zed2 said:

What are your thoughts on creating such a sub group of members?

Keith

 

You are coming close to violating the first rule; "don't badmouth someone else's car".  What might start out as an innocent comment could turn into a knife fight.  I've seen it happen...hear.

1 hour ago, kats said:

Sorry I was mistaken the car, the picture of the door glass “April 1973 “ is for the 1973 240Z, so it is correct. 
I checked HLS30-01606, the car has correct glasses. Like most of other parts, the date is a little bit earlier than the door jam tag. 
Kats

HI Kats,

How is the date read from the Nissan Temperlite etch please?  I have the etches on the CSP glass, so it would be interesting/helpful from that side.  Thanks.

@kats I think I have worked out the date codes for the glass. If you look carefully the small dots "." are placed differently for the date. On "01606", a Jan 1970 that was on BAT there are three dots, one after Temperlite, just in front of ASAHI, under the "I" in ASAHI. They signify Dec 1969.

On the 1973 Green 240Z currently on BAT you can see the dots are in a different position to "01606"

Hi Ian, sorry I fallen asleep before explaining about how to. SpeedRoo is correct, the position of dots are telling year and month.

Here is a link when I posted about it, 

I think other cars have definitely the same markings. So you can find out when your glasses were made Ian !

Kats

 

 

Fantastic! Thank you.

On 11/29/2022 at 4:48 PM, SpeedRoo said:

Keep it coming guys, fantastic comments and great feedback.

What would be the right door rubbers for this car, the early 2-piece type or single piece bulb type like this one has?

 

 

It seems to be missing the key number decal in the glovebox.

 

They painted over some bolts on the rear end. Looks like it has the factory rubber bushings on the mustache bar.

All those yellow dots remind me of a shop here called " Stipt Polish Point " 😹. Looks cool but a bit over done imo. Can't you just torque everything down without those markings lol

The valve cover should be "cast aluminium look " instead of polished...

52 minutes ago, bartsscooterservice said:

All those yellow dots remind me of a shop here called " Stipt Polish Point " 😹. Looks cool but a bit over done imo. Can't you just torque everything down without those markings lol

Those yellow marks are supposed to replicate the inspector’s lacquer used at the factory. Inspector’s lacquer is used to indicate the fastener has been properly torqued, and, should the fastener come loose in service, will provide a visual indication easily seen during service inspections.

2 hours ago, Racer X said:

Those yellow marks are supposed to replicate the inspector’s lacquer used at the factory. Inspector’s lacquer is used to indicate the fastener has been properly torqued, and, should the fastener come loose in service, will provide a visual indication easily seen during service inspections.

Yeah I know what it is, I just think it's a bit overkill

No, the yellow paint in that picture above is fairly conservative.  IMO too neatly done, the paint marks thin and aligned.  I think the factory application was far more sloppy.

On 12/10/2022 at 9:19 PM, 26th-Z said:

No, the yellow paint in that picture above is fairly conservative.  IMO too neatly done, the paint marks thin and aligned.  I think the factory application was far more sloppy.

The markers they used in the factory ( if they did ) prob was crayon or something, that dissolved not paint. 

For a restoration I dont need it personally, its not like you are doing assembly line stuff anymore

On my cars, the yellow paint (I assume lacquer) was blotched on with a brush.  Fairly messy, seemingly applied in a hurry.

So, I looked at all my glass, from both cars, and I can't tell what from the chart.  I have some LAMISAFE M-146 and some TEMPERLITE M-215