2 hours ago, hiyabrad said:

@SpeedRoo Can you provide the contact info or a link?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/294547413490?hash=item449464d9f2:g:GZQAAOSwNzVhkMkD

5 hours ago, inline6 said:

I will just have to rekey my locks in a "smart way" if you know what I mean.

That's what I did. I had enough tumblers that I re-populated my locks the way I wanted them and then cut my own key to work with them. Turned out great.

I'm gentle with the door locks now. I try to apply juuuuuuussst enough pressure to unlock. Trying not to smear the soft metal so I don't have to ever mess with them again.

9 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

That's what I did. I had enough tumblers that I re-populated my locks the way I wanted them and then cut my own key to work with them. Turned out great.

I'm gentle with the door locks now. I try to apply juuuuuuussst enough pressure to unlock. Trying not to smear the soft metal so I don't have to ever mess with them again.

I know what you mean about the soft metal.  The "sleeve" that the hatch lock cylinder works with has partial grooves in it made by the tumblers interfering with it.  A bit of 3 in 1 Marvel Mystery oil and I had the wrong key working that hatch lock about as good as the correct key would have!  

I plan on using some parts from the spare hatch lock I have that currently uses the L type key.  The exterior wear is noticeably less, so I am hoping the internal wear is less also.  I'd like to get the sleeve re-chromed though.  I dislike the discoloration from wear of pushing the hatch lock cylinder in to operate the latch.  

Question for you, did you rekey the glove box lock to match as well?  I haven't taken a close look at that one.  

Also, I have researched enough online to see that the ignition switch uses different tumblers than the door or hatch locks.  Do you have A-16-100 keying kit?  At present, I'm thinking it would be nice indeed to get just a few little parts to rekey the ignition.  If you can help, let me know.  

I re-keyed my glove box along with the rest of the locks on the car. However, my 77 uses the newer (74 on) style lock. I haven't messed with an older style glove box lock. Mine looks like this:

While the older style looks like this. I've not messed with one of these, but I expect it to be conceptually similar to the rest of the locks:

So about the tumblers for the ignition locks... I believe the only difference between the tumblers for the ignition and the rest of the car is a slight change in profile at the top of the tumblers.

Here's a pic of a couple ignition tumblers. Note the concave shape to the top of the outline. The doors, etc do not have that concave feature:

Everywhere else on the car, the tumblers are domed (convex) on both top and bottom. With that in mind, ignition tumblers are able to be used in other locks, but I don't remember what that concave feature is for, so I can't offhand tell you if door tumblers would work properly in an ignition application. I'll have to dig my (three) lock box off the shelf and re-familiarize myself with that detail.

Just now, Captain Obvious said:

Oh, and BTW,,, You can clearly see the difference in the location of the rectangular hole in this pic.

Note the difference in the material thickness at the top and bottom of the holes between these two different numbered tumblers:

 

I received the keying kit I bought on eBay.  Not sure how complete it is, but looks good:

I took the wafers out of the hatch lock that I do not have a key for (row 1) and then looked through the kit to pull out matching wafers (row 2) along with the matching tumbler number from the kit (on the paper).  So, if the kit calls them tumblers, they are not wafers?

With the wafers (tumbers) all out of the cylinder, I can confirm that the cylinder is the part that is different with regard to R or L or whatever type keys.  So, you need the cylinders to match for keying all locks to one key.  

Also, here are some pics of the part of the hatch lock that seems to wear most.  This chrome plated sleeve has the "bar" inside that prevents the lock from rotating as the tumblers press up against it.  I think this piece is really soft metal.  Sure would be nice to have a quality replacement part for these sleeves.  First pic is from my "ratty" hatch lock with no key, second and third pics are from my "nice" hatch lock - for this one I took pics of the lower "bar" and upper "bar".  So much for appearances.

    

 

This is the part that needs to be re-plated.  Any ideas for repairing the damage to the bars?  Get it chrome plated and then use a two part epoxy?  Of course, there is always the quip "not worth the trouble" - I know.

Edited December 23, 20222 yr by inline6

I think "tumbler" and "wafer" are pretty much synonymous when referring to this kind of lock. 

Yes, the "Right" or "Left" style of lock comes down to the cylinder casting, meaning that the key blank will only fit into the correct style cylinder. But they all share the same tumblers.

As for the wear grooves in the outer shell, I don't have any good suggestions about how make those better. The lock cylinder and other body parts are (I think) cast zinc. Cheap, easy to work with, easy to get fine detail and accuracy. All of that makes it a popular choice for locks. Note that "durability" is not in that list of properties. And I don't think epoxy will last long. It's softer than the zinc.

Ideas? Find a NOS replacement. Pay someone to make a whole new one. Live with it. 

@inline6

Garrett,

I don't remember, did you end up rekeying all your locks?

Charles

Never mind I found it in your build thread

I did, including the glove box lock.  For that one, you have to drive out a pin to access the wafers.