Posted December 21, 20222 yr comment_648516 The other day I was tearing into a Subie R160 CLSD that had sustained some rust damage and thought I’d better replace the bearings. When I got to the races in the outer side covers I began my usual anxiety cycle where I think of 11 ways to get them out, but all are risky and start doubting if I can figure it out. The dang covers are aluminum and the races are stell, so there is no bangin’ or rippin’ allowed. There is no place to just punch them out, the thick edge you have to apply force to is well shrouded. An internal bearing puller might work but you have to rig up a plate to bolt the hole thing to. Bah After about an hour of going back and forth with ideas, each one more extreme and time consuming than the last, BANG the right way leaped into my heat. Heat. Aluminum expands like crazy compared to steel. Edited December 21, 20222 yr by zKars Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68057-rebuilding-r160-andr180-tip-for-bearing-replacement/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 21, 20222 yr Author comment_648517 Clamped it in the vice upright, got the MAP gas torch out (propane would be just fine) and warmed up the outer circumference for about 90 seconds. The race just popped out with minimal prying with a flat blade behind it. 5 minutes, both sides done. Bamn! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68057-rebuilding-r160-andr180-tip-for-bearing-replacement/#findComment-648517 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 21, 20222 yr Author comment_648518 On to that really nasty race that on the inside of the pinion shaft. Getting it out is easy, but getting it lined up and beaten back into place from the nose is a real test of wills. It’s down there about 10 inches….. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68057-rebuilding-r160-andr180-tip-for-bearing-replacement/#findComment-648518 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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