We’ll gang, happy to report the test drive with the new rad installed is showing a marked improvement. Like for like conditions but without the constantly variable electric fans installed (which I had on the old rad) temps are 15°-20°c lower than with the old rad - and that’s purely with the mech fan.

The twin electric fans run off a second thermostat in the housing that signals a PWM driver - which varies their duty cycle from 20% to 85% depending on how hot the car is. That way the fans don’t just kick in when it’s too late but rather constantly adjust to help the car cool as the heat builds but without constantly sucking big juice out of the alternator.

I also have an off position that does 7% duty cycle to keep them spinning so as to not be a blocker to the mech fan. I also have a 100% position on the switch for emergency cooling. The fans also work on a delay off timer that keeps them on for 5 mins after the car is turned off. The switch fits perfectly here!




I have to make a new bracket to fit the elec fans to the rad panel as previously they were on the rad core and I never like that for obvious reasons. Especially bad on an alu rad!

Why am I running two fans? Because they are high quality, came from a UK club member for peanuts and I like the fact that if one fails, the other will likely continue working. Paranoid, maybe definitely!

Attended a Hagerty Cars & Caffeine event this morning, co-sponsored by Liberty Mutual and held in their parkling garage. Joining me were fellow members @Dens240 and @zed2. After the cars thinned out we were able to get our rides together for a pic. That is Dennis' beatifully restored blue over white '72 and Keith's very original '70 parked beside me. There was probably close to $5-6 milion worth of exotics at the gathering with a Ferrari F40 as a featured display car.

The 280Z continues to run well.  I filled the tank today with 12 gallons of fresh gas, so there is about 3:1 new versus old.  It already seems to run a bit better over 4,000 RPM, though I haven't pushed it hard.  The fuel gauge went to full, so as of now, everything works except the vacuum-controled HVAC.  The hoses are all brittle, so I ordered a 50' roll of vac hose that hasn't arrived yet.

The carpet in the car is completely worn out and faded, so I'm trying to decide which vendor to go with.  Amazon has ACC for $348 with free shipping.  StockInteriors.com has what looks like the same exact kit, though they don't mention ACC.  Their current price is $325 + $75 for shipping.  Factory Interiors has the same ACC kit as Amazon for $288 + $71 shipping.  ZCarDepot has a kit that doesn't specify the vendor, quality, etc. for $299 + $30 shipping.  Finally, there is Newark Auto.  They have a kit for $275 with free shipping.  The ACC kit is molded, while the Newark kit is not.  Is one better than the other?  What kit have others had good luck with?

I would want molded if I could get it. The molded should fit better in the corners if it's done properly

Somebody on FB says that he likes the MSA 5-piece molded-sewn kit the best.  Anybody have that kit?

I drove my car 30 minutes to work today and all went well, except, I REALLY need to find and seal up the air leaks in the back of the car.  I have a pounding headache.  🤢

I've been very busy with work and have been quiet on this forum for while now, but I still read the posts and still glean important knowledge and laughs from all of you.   To my pleasure my Z has run great over the past year without any issues, and as of late, been driving it about 3 to four days a week. It's turned out to be a good solid car.  Today, while driving home, I caught nice rock on the windshield from oncoming traffic. I saw it coming and could do nothing.🥴   I'm hoping it's repairable so I'm taking it to a windshield repair place ASAP so it won't spread.  

I installed a leather steering wheel cover today.  It was $15.99 on Amazon and it looks great.  My Z had one of those terrible 1970's foam/vinyl wheel wraps.  I left it in place to add a bit of thickness and put the leather cover over top.  Ideally, I would have removed the old wrap and added foam padding to get the thickness I wanted, but then it would have been much harder to get the correct leather size.  I removed the wheel and used a baseball stitch.  It took a few hours to stitch it on and I'm happy with the results. The old wrap prints through a bit in the photo, but it's barely visible in person and it actually gives the wheel a bit more grip in the hands.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0989MRSDV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details  I bought a M3 size and it was perfect with the foam wrap under the leather.  I'd guess the M2 would fit a stock 280Z wheel.

After a few trouble-free weeks of driving, my headlights started acting up. Sometimes, they won't come on, but after a few tries with the switch, they work. In addition now, the RH light isn't working at all. A test light shows power at the connector by the fender, so I cleaned the contacts with no change. I then removed the lamp and I also have power at the bulb socket, so I put 12V directly to the lamp and it works fine. With everything back together, the light is still dead. Time to dig deeper. 

With the high beams switched on, the LH light is dim and the RH is still dead. Clearly I have issues, so I need to go through the whole system. 

The morning drive to work is dark enough to need the lights on for other traffic, but not for me. In the coming weeks, I will need them to see. 

After a few trouble-free weeks of driving, my headlights started acting up. Sometimes, they won't come on, but after a few tries with the switch, they work. In addition now, the RH light isn't working at all. A test light shows power at the connector by the fender, so I cleaned the contacts with no change. I then removed the lamp and I also have power at the bulb socket, so I put 12V directly to the lamp and it works fine. With everything back together, the light is still dead. Time to dig deeper. 
With the high beams switched on, the LH light is dim and the RH is still dead. Clearly I have issues, so I need to go through the whole system. 
The morning drive to work is dark enough to need the lights on for other traffic, but not for me. In the coming weeks, I will need them to see. 

IIRC the lights each have a positive feed from the fuse box and connect to the negative through the stalk switch as one. So if one side is working, I wager you have a break on the way back to the stalk switch from that side. Did you do a continuity test on the -ve side of the bulb holder?

5 minutes ago, AK260 said:

Did you do a continuity test on the -ve side of the bulb holder?

Not yet, but I will.  Thanks!

The lights are working again.  With some coaching from @Randalla, I pulled the combo switch and cleaned the contacts.  That got both high beams working, but not the RH low beam.  That issue turned out to be the bulb socket.  I cleaned the terminals on the bulb and the socket and everything works again.  

Edited October 22, 20231 yr by Jeff G 78