Connecting aftermarket alternator

[MM569457]

Ok, I’ve started wiring the alternator in my 1977 280Z. I’ve noticed a huge issue:

 

the wiring harness has two wires and T-Connector, while the alternator has four pins.

Im not sure as to the type of Alternator, 

but would a new compatible voltage regulator be needed to make this work?

 

thanks in advance!

[SteveJ]

Why use that alternator? Is someone going to inflict bodily harm on you if you don't use it? Other than it being manufactured by Mitsubishi, what do you know about it? Has it been tested as good? What is the output, and is the output curve appropriate?

It will need an external voltage regulator and one heck of a cleaning. Those terminals won't have very good contact.

You could possibly make it work, but why?

Here is what I believe the connections to be:

You could get a 4-pin non-latching connector from Vintage Connections, but the pin won't be big enough to accommodate the gauge wire for the power wire.

[MM569457]

Good points. I looked up some alternators. I’ll just take this core and exchange. Probably spend the same amount trying to figure how to Jerry Rig this one

[SteveJ]

Don't forget about Rockauto.

If you go for the externally regulated, choose one rated for 60A. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,280z,2.8l+l6,1209248,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

Internally regulated (modifications on Blue's tech tips): https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1979,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209293,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

[heyitsrama]

Wow 20 bucks and you have a 4 pin core right there too

[MM569457]

New alternator installed. It appears the condenser is bolted directly onto the E ground, with a circle hook directly in the positive. 
 

Does this effective bypass the line coming off the positive white/red line?

[SteveJ]

The condenser is supposed to be grounded like how you received it. It looks like you opted for the internally regulated alternator. You'll need to look at Blue's tech tips on how to jumper the wires on the voltage regulator to give it the signals it needs.

[MM569457]

This is a Duralast 14118, it should be externally regulated and relatively plug and play.

 

unless I was duped?

[Dave WM]

BTW, if you have a fuel injection system (correct for a 77 to be FI not carb) I would HIGHLY recommend you get the correct fuel filter, not that plastic thing in there. 

[SteveJ]

43 minutes ago, MM569457 said:

This is a Duralast 14118, it should be externally regulated and relatively plug and play.

 

unless I was duped?

The cross reference would make one think it's externally regulated, but there is usually an N and F by the T plug for neutral and field IIRC. Just monitor the voltage, and if it's above 15 VDC to ground, it's internally regulated.

[Zed Head]

1 hour ago, MM569457 said:

This is a Duralast 14118, it should be externally regulated and relatively plug and play.

 

unless I was duped?

Don't know if you were duped but that's not a 14118.  It's an internally regulated unit, the P terminal is a clue besides the T connection for L and S.

Here's a Rockauto picture of the 14118.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=37404&jsn=270

[SteveJ]

Prompted by @Zed Head's reply, I looked at the Autozone site again. The sample pictures match the reman Hitachi, too.

It also has the N and F terminals that I would expect. It's good to know that my mind isn't completely gone. I'm glad Zed also remembered the P terminal.

 

By the way, here's a link to a list of alternator terminal designations: https://shop.pkys.com/Alternator-Terminals-explained.html

Edited February 19, 2023 by SteveJ