Steering column lower u-joint replacement part

[fusion]

I'm wanting to sandblast and paint my steering shaft.  I'd like to take the u-joint out.  If I take it out I'd like to replace with a new one.  I found one reference in another thread to using a Kawasaki KFX700 u joint.  Has anyone used that part or another part?

 

Thanks

[Patcon]

Yes, I used that part.

It can be a little tricky to reassemble.  I had to clearance the one I got some. Not every needs to though.

[26th-Z]

I don't remember if I used that particular part.  My steering shaft u-joint was worn out and I took it to a machine shop for replacement.  They wouldn't do it for liability reasons so I took it apart, measured all the various dimensions and found a u-joint on the internet that fit.  Put the whole thing back together myself.  I remember also that u-joint installation between model years is different.  Some had the u-joints peened in place and some, like mine, had a clip.

[Namerow]

Bought the same part.  Had the same issue.  Annoying cut-and-try job, but not a big deal.

[EuroDat]

Are these the same as in the 280Z?

The 280Z uses the staked version size 15x39mm.

[fusion]

For those of you that had to modify the part to work, can you explain what you did?

[Namerow]

The clearance issue is obvious when you attempt reassembly.  No problems fitting the spider into the yoke on the main shaft.  However, when you go to fit stub shaft's yoke, the yoke ear won't quite clear the spider.  Unfortunately, it's been a couple of years since I did this job and I can't remember the area of the spider that I had to relieve to get rid of the interference.  I'm sure that Charles can explain.  Maybe pictures, too.

[Patcon]

Im sure I documented that somewhere on the forum but I can't find it. I thought it was in my build thread but maybe not. Maybe the librarian can find it?

As I recall the shoulders of the spider were too wide to tip into the yoke. So they had to be shaped down to fit in

[zKars]

Haven’t done this for a while (done 10+ before hand), but sourcing ATV700 part number u-joints never resulted in any issues during reassembly.

If you have to do a little “clearancing” with whatever parts are now available, well it never hurts. Sounds like what I always have to do with GM alternator replacements. Some part of the case or mounting bracket has to be “relieved” to make it swing in close enough to get the belt on. Just what you have to do.

What I do remember is the last time I ordered more from the u-joint store I think, they were having supply chain issues and couldn’t supply any. Will have to check again.

Edited February 23, 2023 by zKars

[fusion]

@zKars @Patcon

So I took a closer look at this and I'm not sure what's going on.  I expected that the caps would be held in with c-clips on the inside, but it appears there are no clips, and the caps are held in due to the fact that the metal rings around the caps appear to be staked (peened?) in place.  How would I go about removing the existing joint?  Were these supposed to be non-serviceable?

[Patcon]

Yes, those are not designed to be serviceable. You can take a dremel and grind off the stakes. Then push the caps out. Restake it when reassembled

[fusion]

Thanks.  How unbelievable that a wear item was designed to be unserviceable.  Do you restake with a sharp chisel?  Does anyone know what years had a clip instead of being staked?