Your response got here just before mine, but the summary of my post is that the car parts manual lists three different sash part numbers*.

80200-N3400 up to 7506
80200-N4500 from 7507 to 7607 And it supersedes 80200-N3400
80200-N4400 from 7608 to the end of the run. And it supersedes  80200-N4500

Based on that, and your pics, it's not a straightforward swap.

 

* For the 260-280 cars. The 240 used a different part number. 

Edited October 21, 20231 yr by Captain Obvious
more detail

10 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Your response got here just before mine, but the summary of my post is that the car parts manual lists three different sash part numbers*.

80200-N3400 up to 7506
80200-N4500 from 7507 to 7607 And it supersedes 80200-N3400
80200-N4400 from 7608 to the end of the run. And it supersedes  80200-N4500

Based on that, and your pics, it's not a straightforward swap.

 

* For the 260-280 cars. The 240 used a different part number. 

Do you have pics of your frame with the outer seal? I'd still like to see how it goes.

Which piece is the 'sash"? EDIT - never mind, I went & looked at the catalog - that's what they call the frame. 47 & 48 are called door window rail/guide

As far as the lower section goes, If I can find pics of  how the separate lower section combines with the upper, I would expect it will assist in figuring it out. Presumably the lower section was altered due to the lock/latch changes.

 

Edited October 21, 20231 yr by HusseinHolland

I finally had the opportunity to snap a couple pics of my later version window trim (sash?) mounting points. Certainly too late to help much now, but here's what I got.

This last shot is a wide headed Phillips screw behind the door panel up at the door lock corner of the panel.

4 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I finally had the opportunity to snap a couple pics of my later version window trim (sash?) mounting points. Certainly too late to help much now, but here's what I got

This last shot is a wide headed Phillips screw behind the door panel up at the door lock corner of the panel.
 

Many thanks for taking the time. I would also like a pic of the top of the frame showing where the top seal is located, if possible.

I'll add reference pics of my door for comparison. Looks like the leading edge is the same, the rear inner, mine also has a dogleg anchor.

I've ordered a pair of the later upper frames (not the inner rear lower channel) - the creeping surface rust on the inner face of mine is transferring to the new rubber seals, and I know that at a certain point, it will no longer wipe off the seals. I can't live with that.

I know I will have to chop off the rear inner section of my channel to attach to the later upper. I'll figure that out. I can always cut the mount brackets off my frame & transfer as needed to the later frames, I have a TIG & stainless rod. 

I now need to find the channel seals I bought inadvertently, I don't know now where I stashed them.

Edited October 25, 20231 yr by HusseinHolland

The other opening - related issue is the hatch will pop open on occasion. Typically when the body is flexed over bumps or uneven roadway. Very annoying. I'll have to try readjusting the latch - I had to move it after doing the hatch seals, however it takes way too much effort to close it.

 

5 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

The other opening - related issue is the hatch will pop open on occasion. Typically when the body is flexed over bumps or uneven roadway. Very annoying. I'll have to try readjusting the latch - I had to move it after doing the hatch seals, however it takes way too much effort to close it.

 

 

That is an easy fix, remove the licence plate lamp unit, loosen the 2 10mm head screws for the latch and push it up a 1/8" tighten the screws back down, try closing the hatch.  Over the years the latch can migrate down after so many openings and closings.

8 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

I would also like a pic of the top of the frame showing where the top seal is located

Not great pics because it's in the dark garage, but hopefully these will help. If not, let me know and I can take some out in the sun next time.

Sorry for the dark. This is the front leading edge.

Rear trailing edge trying to show the channel that the weatherstrip fits into. My corner is torn off:

3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

That is an easy fix, remove the licence plate lamp unit, loosen the 2 10mm head screws for the latch and push it up a 1/8" tighten the screws back down, try closing the hatch.  Over the years the latch can migrate down after so many openings and closings.

 

Many Thanks! I didn't realize the lower catch was adjustable. I'll take care of that tomorrow. 😁

12 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Not great pics because it's in the dark garage, but hopefully these will help. If not, let me know and I can take some out in the sun next time.

Sorry for the dark. This is the front leading edge.
Rear trailing edge trying to show the channel that the weatherstrip fits into. My corner is torn off:
 

Those help - thank you - I can see it runs the length of the trough - that's what I wasn't sure of.

Followed grannyknot's directions - much better now, no more slamming required. I did have to make it a touch tighter than I wanted, to make sure the horizontal seal was snug against the hatch - don't want any fumes sucking in. Paper pull test to check 

Now that the hatch doesn't need to be slammed shut, I fixed the broken louvre center rib. I made a SS plate U channel to bridge the fracture & riveted it in place. Added channel isolator afterwards to prevent further damage/scratching of the rear glass.  One less annoying rattle to listen to.

Overall, the car is now much more pleasant to drive. No exhaust fumes unless I drive with the windows open, then typically decel seems to suck  them in. It is pretty loud in the cabin, much drivetrain noise coming through the tunnel & rear floor. I may have to add some additional padding behind the cargo hatches.

 

Edited November 2, 20231 yr by HusseinHolland

Cleaned up the 78 window frames (sashes) I bought. Certainly not 'excellent' condition - multiple scratches from storage. Hopefully I can polish most of them out, never tried before. He didn't pack them with any buffer between them either. Have to figure what compound may work without removing the coat. My existing frames are worn thin & have surface rust on the seal surface, which is why I want to replace them  

Stripped all the old inner & outer seals

 

Edited November 19, 20231 yr by HusseinHolland