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75 280Z Front Suspension Work, Brake Upgrade and 15x7" Konig Rewinds


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13 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

The issue with the gibberish in the manual... The manuals were scanned to PDF on a flat bed scanner and OCRed (Optical Character Recognition). Not sure why, but the OCR process for the 75 manual (and only the 75 manual) didn't do so well. If you look at the same page FA-2 in the 76 manual everything makes sense.

One last thing I think I see on your pics is that there should be a smaller flat washer on both outside ends of the larger washers. Doesn't look like you have one of those on the forward side of your car. Looks like you have the big domed washer right up against the shoulder on the T/C rod.

Good luck with the covid. I don't think I'm ever going to be the same. I think I'll be OK, but different.

 

I didn't note there being any flat washers in with the domed washers when I took it apart - I think I saw the ones that came with the Energy suspension having smaller washers as you have pictured though. I do have another pair of the larger flat washers, so perhaps that is where they originated. Again the FSM doesn't show the parts breakdown that would indicate the presence of the flat washer in addition to the 'cup' washer...

 

4 hours ago, Racer X said:

Covid eh?

That sucks.

I thought we were pretty much past that unpleasantry.

Get well soon.

 

I'm a public school teacher - there are sick teenagers all the time. Since we are now in Testing mode, they are packed into small classrooms with poor ventilation, and we have to proctor them for 3 hour intervals. That's how I got it this time. Last year, I got it within a week of the mask requirement being lifted for public schools. 

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23 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Here's a source showing it on the rod side.  They don't show one on the nut side though.

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-suspension

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Thank you for the pic - I checked the parts catalog I downloaded, and it shows the same. I wish the images were crisper 😞

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On 6/16/2023 at 2:18 PM, Racer X said:

Wilwood 2 piston calipers and 280ZX solid rotors in the rear (no parking brake), and a Tilton dual master cylinder pedal assembly with adjustable balance bar, and asymmetrical master cylinder sizes (sorry, I don’t recall the diameters, I’ll check when I get a chance).

I was out in the shop today and remembered to have a look. The master cylinder sizes are 3/4” on the front circuit and 7/8” on the rear. 

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Finally got back to the front end - removed the torsion rods & flipped the cone washers, moved the flat washer to the front side, installed one poly bush on the forward face, added a hardened washer under the nut I used the insert tube from the poly kit, it is slightly longer than the stock version used with only rubber. Torqued to 44ft/lbs.

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Didn't get to drive it, the rain is coming down too hard. I'll find out if that resolved it

PXL_20230626_180028006.jpg

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Probably right.  I overlooked #4.  Sorry about that.

The nut actually attaches the bushing sleeve and washers to the rod and the rod to the body.  Not the transverse link.  That's what got me.  Still seems like a high value for a fine (higher leverage) thread pitch.  But it is an important piece.

They carried the weird words all the way through 1978.

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12 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

Finally got back to the front end - removed the torsion rods & flipped the cone washers, moved the flat washer to the front side, installed one poly bush on the forward face, added a hardened washer under the nut I used the insert tube from the poly kit, it is slightly longer than the stock version used with only rubber. Torqued to 44ft/lbs.
 

On the early Z cars, the rods are compression rods, as they are behind the lower control arms, and the forces that act on them are compression forces. 

On the ‘79 and up Z cars, the rods are in front of the lower control arms, and are tension rods, because the forces acting on them are tension forces.

 

 

12 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

 

PXL_20230626_165027308.jpg

Didn't get to drive it, the rain is coming down too hard. I'll find out if that resolved it

 


Looks like the clutch hose needs replaced.

Also note the twist on it. It has been installed poorly. When you replace it, be sure to not let it get twisted like that.

 

 

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Washers and bushings look good. 

As Racer X mentioned... That clutch line.  Haha!!  When you replace it, screw it tight into the slave cylinder first. Then (after it's fully tight into the slave) put the other end into the holder bracket attached to the chassis. That will allow you to get a better routing of the rubber line with less twisting.

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