3 hours ago, Racer X said:

On the early Z cars, the rods are compression rods, as they are behind the lower control arms, and the forces that act on them are compression forces. 

On the ‘79 and up Z cars, the rods are in front of the lower control arms, and are tension rods, because the forces acting on them are tension forces.
Looks like the clutch hose needs replaced.

Also note the twist on it. It has been installed poorly. When you replace it, be sure to not let it get twisted like that.

Not sure where I picked up the 'torsion' rod description, I assumed it was from somewhere in the FSM, however I see they call it a compression rod in the 75 manual I have in my possession. Volvo used a similar design, they called them caster rods.

2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Washers and bushings look good. 

As Racer X mentioned... That clutch line.  Haha!!  When you replace it, screw it tight into the slave cylinder first. Then (after it's fully tight into the slave) put the other end into the holder bracket attached to the chassis. That will allow you to get a better routing of the rubber line with less twisting.

Indeed!! I have the parts, I was going to do it last week, however I couldn't get the clutch master reservoir cap off, and was not about to apply excessive force to that. I'm changing it in part because it was clearly improperly installed. I do understand how to properly install a hydraulic flex hose to ensure the line is not under tension as seen in my pic , but thanks for the concern 🙂

Edited June 27, 20231 yr by HusseinHolland

21 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

I do understand how to properly install a hydraulic flex hose to ensure the line is not under tension as seen in my pic

Sorry. Not intending to imply that you didn't... Just highlighting the details in the design to save you the potential trouble that I went through once.

I once had a leaking slave cylinder that needed attention. Since the rubber hose looked fine, my plan was to unbolt the slave cylinder off the bell housing and unscrew it from the hose and then simply screw the new slave on in it's place. The thought was that while the rubber hose looked great, the mounting tab fitting welded to the body was a little rusty crusty and I didn't want to mess with potentially breaking it off the body. Simple plan, right?

So the main portion of the plan worked great. Got the cylinder off the bell housing no problem and the new one went on fine, but the problem was that it was now pointing just about 180 degrees in the wrong direction. The hose screws into the slave and stops where it stops it when it's tight. And if that happens to be in the wrong direction, so be it, You either MUST deal with the rusty crusty other end, or mount it up the way you PO did it. I'm thinking they decided that twisting the hose was better than cracking the other end free.

All that said, if you're replacing the hose, you'll have both ends loose so it shouldn't be an issue. Just don't save the cylinder mounting for the very end.    Save the double flare fitting for the very end.

12 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Sorry. Not intending to imply that you didn't... Just highlighting the details in the design to save you the potential trouble that I went through once.

I once had a leaking slave cylinder that needed attention. Since the rubber hose looked fine, my plan was to unbolt the slave cylinder off the bell housing and unscrew it from the hose and then simply screw the new slave on in it's place. The thought was that while the rubber hose looked great, the mounting tab fitting welded to the body was a little rusty crusty and I didn't want to mess with potentially breaking it off the body. Simple plan, right?

So the main portion of the plan worked great. Got the cylinder off the bell housing no problem and the new one went on fine, but the problem was that it was now pointing just about 180 degrees in the wrong direction. The hose screws into the slave and stops where it stops it when it's tight. And if that happens to be in the wrong direction, so be it, You either MUST deal with the rusty crusty other end, or mount it up the way you PO did it. I'm thinking they decided that twisting the hose was better than cracking the other end free.

All that said, if you're replacing the hose, you'll have both ends loose so it shouldn't be an issue. Just don't save the cylinder mounting for the very end.    Save the double flare fitting for the very end.

I understand the logic there - and also know from experience how the threads in the fixed fitting may or may not coincide with providing me the proper fitment - I've done exactly the same thing, with brake lines on the Fiat - those rarely come apart without damage, so if it's possible the spin the item off the line rather than undo the fitting, so much the better.

I want the hose to end up nice & relaxed as my (one piece) front brake hoses 🙂

So, setting the compression rod washers properly positioned, and the rod nuts properly torqued ended the front end vibration. 

11 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

So, setting the compression rod washers properly positioned, and the rod nuts properly torqued ended the front end vibration. 

Excellent. I bet that thing feels a lot better on the road than when you started!

On 6/28/2023 at 10:02 AM, Captain Obvious said:

Sorry. Not intending to imply that you didn't... Just highlighting the details in the design to save you the potential trouble that I went through once.

I once had a leaking slave cylinder that needed attention. Since the rubber hose looked fine, my plan was to unbolt the slave cylinder off the bell housing and unscrew it from the hose and then simply screw the new slave on in it's place. The thought was that while the rubber hose looked great, the mounting tab fitting welded to the body was a little rusty crusty and I didn't want to mess with potentially breaking it off the body. Simple plan, right?

So the main portion of the plan worked great. Got the cylinder off the bell housing no problem and the new one went on fine, but the problem was that it was now pointing just about 180 degrees in the wrong direction. The hose screws into the slave and stops where it stops it when it's tight. And if that happens to be in the wrong direction, so be it, You either MUST deal with the rusty crusty other end, or mount it up the way you PO did it. I'm thinking they decided that twisting the hose was better than cracking the other end free.

All that said, if you're replacing the hose, you'll have both ends loose so it shouldn't be an issue. Just don't save the cylinder mounting for the very end.    Save the double flare fitting for the very end.

Took care of the clutch slave hose & fork boot today

New boot in place

line attached, slave attached

bled by putting bleeder line into fluid, then make sure reservoir is full & just stroke the pedal about 10 times, done