Heater valve

[Patcon]

So I am messing around with heater boxes right now and I was pressure testing two heater valves I had. I cobbled together some hoses to attach my coolant tester to. One valve did ok, although it leaks slightly around the push rod when it's being actuated. The other leaks badly as the junction of the brass body to the steel bracketry. So in the best Captain Obvious manner, I decided to take it apart!

Folded the ears back

and removed the bracketry

The internals just pull out after that

There is a square O ring seal between the hard plastic end and an inner washer. I think if it were replaced the valve would seal up. I've started looking for suitable O rings without having to buy a 100qty.

Bead blasted the valve body just for fun

[Namerow]

Once upon a time (fifteen years ago), there was a generic rebuild kit available from NAPA that provided the necessary seals.  When I checked circa 2015, it was NLA.

Napa part #660-1000

Good hunting.

[Patcon]

Cool!

Have to try that!

[Patcon]

They're using that number but I don't think it's the same part

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6601000

[Namerow]

Here's the article that referenced the NAPA kit.  Created by 'Palladin' and uploaded to the Zcar.com website many years ago.

280ZX Heater Cock Rebuild (auto-cock, pull type).pdf

[Patcon]

3 hours ago, Namerow said:

Here's the article that referenced the NAPA kit.  Created by 'Palladin' and uploaded to the Zcar.com website many years ago.

280ZX Heater **** Rebuild (auto-****, pull type).pdf 481.96 kB · 0 downloads

That is for a 280ZX. The heater parts look a little different. I wonder if it's possible to rebuild the older style valve with the newer parts?

[Namerow]

We'll know the answer to that question after you've located the NAPA kit.😄  

I suspect that the internals didn't change over the design history of that valve.  Base plate, levers, mounting holes, yes.  But cylinder, cap, plunger, rod and seal --- less likely.

[HusseinHolland]

Nice work! Always good to rebuild when possible. It's better to problem-solve & find a solution vs. just replace

If you have a selection of AC orings, for example, the thick wall variety would probably seal, since it's just the seat, not the sliding seal. I doubt that square cut is an imperative, if one cannot be readily sourced.  

Edited May 15, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[Patcon]

7 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

Nice work! Always good to rebuild when possible. It's better to problem-solve & find a solution vs. just replace

If you have a selection of AC orings, for example, the thick wall variety would probably seal, since it's just the seat, not the sliding seal. I doubt that square cut is an imperative, if one cannot be readily sourced.  

I looked through my O-ring assortments. I didn't find one that looked like a good candidate yet. I'm gonna keep looking locally

[ETI4K]

I'm with Hussein.  There's a lot of pleasure taken from bringing a worn part back to life.  I've repaired more switches, valves, contractors, etc. than I could ever count, and most have continued to operate for many years.  Having a 3D printer helps!

Nice work bead blasting.  Did you do it wet or dry?  It looks perfect.

I once found a place that would sell you one oring. Amazing! or so I thought, then they add the shipping.  Really? $15 to mail one oring?  Buy the bag of a 100.🙄  Think of the business you could start repairing heater valves.

Edited May 15, 2023 by ETI4K

[Patcon]

The $15, is to pay the guy to wander out into the warehouse, find it and then drop it in an envelope. I do agree it seems excessive but it might not be...

[dutchzcarguy]

The internal part with the rubber parts is a perfect test .. put it in washing detergent and let it soak a few days (heat it up sometimes to max 60 C. you get new rings..  (only if the rings are not damaged ofcourse)