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Dave W 1971/240Z rebuild


grannyknot

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Those floor panels look like a really good fit! 

I bought one of those flanger/hole punch tools - it was essential for the roof junction on my Volvo pickup truck conversion. I used Lord Fusor & a spot welder through the sunroof opening to join it though, no panel distortion that way.

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Edited by HusseinHolland
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  • 2 weeks later...

Most if not all welds in these pics aren't completed yet, I'm just trying to get the bulk of the metal work done before Xmas. Filling them in and finishing will be in the next stage.

The front triangular sections of the rails were pretty banged up so I hammered them back into the best shape I could and now I'm adding 2.5mm plate on the bottom to add some strength and make them into jacking points.

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Dave stopped by with the rebuilt brake booster, they did a beautiful job.

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Two full days to figure out the deck lid supports and add the new deck lid.  The KFV parts in this area are not all that accurate so lots of massaging was needed.

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Here is a little addition I wish Nissan had added back in the day, the original channels dump the water right into the corner of the deck lid and then it just sits there, rotting the metal.  This extra 4" of channel has the water clear the deck lid before draining on to the ground.  Made from the off cuts of the KFV panels.

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I'm working for the best customer you can imagine, Dave just dropped off the best Xmas present I have ever received.  An ESAB Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 30+ plasma cutter!  This thing is such a sweet toy, I used it today to cut out the last reinforcement plate for the D/S rail.  I have wanted one of these for years so it is going to get a lot of use.:love:

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Repairs on the wheel well lip can be a real bugger, the quarter panel and inner wheel well liner are so close there is very little room to work with. Fortunately, the off cuts of the KFV dog leg panels came in handy as they are a good match for the lip.

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Both floor pans are in now, if you install the rail first you can end up with a gap under the front seat mount even though it is at the correct height.

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So on the D/S I installed the seat mount first but found the rail to have a big gap, had to slice the end of the rail so I could get everything to line up and then weld it back together.

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I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to save the battery tray or the inner fender supporting it.

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The tray I threw in a bucket of citric acid for a few days, some big pits but nothing broke through the surface so it is still usable.

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I used a air scaler on the inner fender but couldn't begin to get the rust in the pinch weld so out of desperation I pulled out a phosphoric acid product I purchased years ago. I've never had much success with phosphoric acid but this stuff was really good, thick gel like consistency, it took several applications with scraping in between but I'm pretty happy with the results.

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I think I have most if not all of the metal working done now, at least the cutting and welding.  I picked the supplies for the new paint job today, still have to go back p/u the paint and clearcoat as the guy at the autobody supply shop couldn't find a modern code for 920 Safari Gold. I'll ask that question in a separate thread.

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We knew there was something funky going on with D/S quarter panel, I got all the filler dug out yesterday.  Time is money in collision shops, so much so that an extra 10 min with a hammer and dolly is asking too much.😄

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Thanks for sharing the photos.

I don't see it as complaining at all, its def. part of the repair process. Hopefully going with pre-fabbed parts will save a bunch of time, could only imagine how much more labor it would be having to make each of these from scratch...

Does that rapid strip disk not create heat in the panel?

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4 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

 

Does that rapid strip disk not create heat in the panel?

Not if you keep it moving. If you want these discs will easily cut through a 1/2" of paint and filler, I just prefer to heat and scrape so I can put all of the shavings in a bag instead of having a thick layer dust everywhere. If you are grinding out rust then yes the heat would ramp up quickly so just keep moving to a new area.

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I started on the hood today, I dread doing the inside of the hood, all the little curves and angles make it the hardest panel.  Nobody even notices it unless it is done badly.

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I'll strip the outside of the hood tomorrow, looks like I have a surprise waiting for me.

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