Do you do all of the inside hood stripping with a heat gun?

Yeah, as much as you can see in the second pic of the last post.  The red oxide primer never comes off with a scraper, the striping discs are the only thing that will remove that stuff.

So not too bad, I thought it might be worse, I'll hit with a torch and try to hammer down some of the highs.

Hard to tell the extent with it stripped, beyond the obvious edge damage - the scuffing makes it look like the whole surface is ****ed - is it just the leading edge or 6-8 inches into the nose?

A shrinking disc works really good on high spots. Then dolly the lows up

55 minutes ago, HusseinHolland said:

Hard to tell the extent with it stripped, beyond the obvious edge damage - the scuffing makes it look like the whole surface is ****ed - is it just the leading edge or 6-8 inches into the nose?

The first 6" is bumpy and the opposite side is covered by the inner frame so I'll concentrate the flame on the high spots and see if I can tap those down then cool quickly with a wet cloth.  Other than that I would have to drill out every spot weld on all 4 sides to get access to the bottom of those dents.

I got 2 coats of epoxy primer on everything this morning, a good feeling having all that bare metal sealed up.  I got the shop temp up 28 degrees C using both the infra red heaters and the big propane burner, and that was the perfect temperature to wake up all the mosquitoes that were hiding.  Lots of bugs to sand out of the primer now.

I rigged up a new exhaust fan so no more mist in the air, so effective that by the last shoot I decided it was safe enough to have the over head infra red propane heater on.

No boom.

I have mentioned this before on other builds but it still surprises me, this panel was freshly sanded, washed with a fine steel brush and Acetone, wiped clean with Acetone until a white cloth came away clean, then repeated with Methyl hydrate until the white cloth came away clean.

Then I washed it again with an industrial Lye cleaner and look at all the dirt that was still on the metal.

Looking great - satisfying to see it with a uniform covering. Does the epoxy primer get coated with 2K, or it that all you need? Trying to remember what I used on the Fiat - that was a mix of steel aluminum & bonded fiberglass panels. I did not strip the bulk of the car to bare metal, so I'm thinking I used  2K, but that was 5 years ago, so my memory  is foggy on details.

That must have taken at least 4-5 hours to do the entire shell and all the take off panels, no? How much primer did it take for the 2 complete rounds?

Hopefully I will paint again one day - still have to figure out where to buy an 80gal compressor that doesn't get buggered on delivery, so far I'm 2for2 on that....

A gallon of epoxy is normally enough to seal a car. With activator it's normally 5 quarts mixed.

Looks good Grannyknot! No boom is always good!!

4 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

Looking great - satisfying to see it with a uniform covering. Does the epoxy primer get coated with 2K, or it that all you need? Trying to remember what I used on the Fiat - that was a mix of steel aluminum & bonded fiberglass panels. I did not strip the bulk of the car to bare metal, so I'm thinking I used  2K, but that was 5 years ago, so my memory  is foggy on details.

That must have taken at least 4-5 hours to do the entire shell and all the take off panels, no? How much primer did it take for the 2 complete rounds?

Hopefully I will paint again one day - still have to figure out where to buy an 80gal compressor that doesn't get buggered on delivery, so far I'm 2for2 on that....

If the body surface was perfect, no dents, I would follow up the 2k epoxy primer with 3 coats of 2k high build primer then block until flat. The surface on this car has lots of little dents that I couldn't bang out so now I will start smoothing them out with filler and once I get the bulk of them filled and a guide coat shows me everything smooth, then I do the 3 coats of high build and start blocking again with 400 grit.

5L of epoxy was enough to do 2 coats on all exterior panels and I have 500ml left in case I burn through to the metal while sanding.  2 full days of cleaning the shop and setting up to spray and about 3 hrs to shoot.

The primer wasn't cured fully this morning, too cool in the garage so I spent the day seam sealing inside and out.

 

What brand of seam sealer do you prefer? I've bought a few variations - the 3M Dynatron seemed one of the more versatile & inexpensive varieties. Has a good working time, but also sets pretty quickly after that. I also used other more pricy 3M urethane sealers such as 08367, but didn't really see any benefits.