So, I decided I wanted to update the fuse box (it'll be one part of the electrical system plan), I designed one in Fusion360 and got it 3D printed by my brother in law (he's new to 3D printing and I haven't a clue about it). Here's what the result was.

The back side didn't print real smooth, but I figure that's operator error.

This is designed for full size blade fuses. I tested it with female spade connectors (snap-in) and a blade fuse. They fit and connect with a little tension. The mounting tabs/ears are spaced accordingly and are same general shape as the original (thickness might be a bit different.

Looks good! As far as the backside, what form of support did he use when generating the G-code? That is a very large open area. He may have to experiment a little.

Are you going to use the stock location? What are your thoughts on a cover?

46 minutes ago, LorenB667 said:

So, I decided I wanted to update the fuse box (it'll be one part of the electrical system plan), I designed one in Fusion360 and got it 3D printed by my brother in law (he's new to 3D printing and I haven't a clue about it). Here's what the result was.

The back side didn't print real smooth, but I figure that's operator error.

This is designed for full size blade fuses. I tested it with female spade connectors (snap-in) and a blade fuse. They fit and connect with a little tension. The mounting tabs/ears are spaced accordingly and are same general shape as the original (thickness might be a bit different.

So I'm guessing that is for a 280Z. I suggest you consider subjecting it to some thermal testing, considering that some of those circuits can pull some current, such as the parking lights and headlights. It's not fun to find that your fuse box has melted down. Been there, done that with the stock 240Z fuse box. 

18 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Are you going to use the stock location? What are your thoughts on a cover?

I've got a design that covers it, it just didn't print worth a damn (too small length wise, dunno why that happened the model fits).

9 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

So I'm guessing that is for a 280Z. I suggest you consider subjecting it to some thermal testing, considering that some of those circuits can pull some current, such as the parking lights and headlights. It's not fun to find that your fuse box has melted down. Been there, done that with the stock 240Z fuse box. 

Part of what I'm planning is a fair amount of wiring adjustments to alleviate the heat from the parking lights and headlights. I think there's some discussion about relays and things. I've just got to spend a bit of time figuring out some of those things. Thankfully it's a long term project. 

I'll see what I can pull off for thermal testing.

23 minutes ago, LorenB667 said:

Part of what I'm planning is a fair amount of wiring adjustments to alleviate the heat from the parking lights and headlights. I think there's some discussion about relays and things. I've just got to spend a bit of time figuring out some of those things. Thankfully it's a long term project. 

I'll see what I can pull off for thermal testing.

The best way to reduce heat in the parking light and headlight circuits is to use LEDs.

For the other circuits, look at the ones using 20A fuses. (76 fuse box as an example) If you keep the same placement, note how close those 3 are together.

One caution on LED headlights (at least for a 240Z) is the way Datsun did the polarity. Here's a thread I did after switching to LED headlights on my car.

 

13 minutes ago, w3wilkes said:

One caution on LED headlights (at least for a 240Z) is the way Datsun did the polarity. Here's a thread I did after switching to LED headlights on my car.

 

I knew I'd forgotten something!

Polarity isn't important if you use H4 housings with these H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH

20 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

Polarity isn't important if you use H4 housings with these H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH

I wasn't aware of this being doable without Dave's wiring mod that makes posts 1 & 2 positive and post 3 negative. I ended up with Dave's mod to fix the polarity for the bulbs I bought.

Search: 1 result found for "tj 97-2015" (eaglelights.com)

1 minute ago, w3wilkes said:

I wasn't aware of this being doable without Dave's wiring mod that makes posts 1 & 2 positive and post 3 negative. I ended up with Dave's mod to fix the polarity for the bulbs I bought.

Search: 1 result found for "tj 97-2015" (eaglelights.com)

I've also done custom relay installations where you can't even see the relays. That's nice for people who want to minimize the visibility of modifications. Anyway, the non-polarity dependent bulbs are great for 260Z and 280Z owners since more modifications would be necessary to get the relays to work.