My 1976 280Z 2+2 Metroid (aka Samus Aran) Restoration/Build Thread

[Paulytunes]

12 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

I can confirm they're great (and fun) in the snow as long as it doesn't get too deep.

My 2009 370Z was terrifying in the snow, even with Blizzak snow tires.  You'd think with all the modern day nannies like traction and stability control that would not be the case.  I got stuck in a blizzard in January 2011.  I stupidly decided to stay at work, even though the rest of the Federal Government had thrown in the towel and let everyone go home early.  I was working at the USNA at the time, and they said, "we are outside the Beltway, so it doesn't apply to the Navy and Annapolis."  Every time I stopped on the Interstate in the stop and go traffic and tried to start up again, the 370Z would go sideways, whether I started in 2nd gear, feathered the throttle, or anything else.  I thought for sure I was going to either run into the car in the next lane or get stuck.  That was probably the longest commute home of all time, and most stressful white knuckle driving I think I have experienced in my over 30 years behind the wheel.  

[Paulytunes]

9 hours ago, Racer X said:

I would just lock in the front hubs and gas it.

 

I saw one of these in central NJ years ago.  In much worse shape, but same concept.  I doubt it was the same car, but how many 4x4 S30's are out there, I wonder?

[Racer X]

38 minutes ago, Paulytunes said:

I saw one of these in central NJ years ago.  In much worse shape, but same concept.  I doubt it was the same car, but how many 4x4 S30's are out there, I wonder?

Probably a few have been dropped onto a 4x4 chassis. I’ve seen pictures of others, some quite extreme, others more like this one. There was a 280ZX in my area but I haven’t seen it in years.

[Paulytunes]

I have been in the process of putting my rear trim back together (from troubleshooting and cleaning out all the fuel vent lines and expansion tank) and I have come to the realization that when you get into the classic car game as a much later owner, you inherit ALL of the previous owners' sins.  This is compounded by the fact that I like things to be very organized and just as they should be.  I also don't like just doing something partially and calling it good enough - my completed work should be almost to the level of the manufacturer's original intent and quality, which I am sure is probably borderline OCD.  I noticed several trim screws missing, found a rodent nest behind the rear light panel trim piece, and this pretty substantial customization of the speaker mount.  Anyone know where I can find a replacement?  These don't seem like an easy to find replacement part, so it may just be that I have to live with it as-is, as well as the age deteriorating vinyl underside the is separating from the rear carpet and gets worse every time I move it.  

I was also able to replace the aged and broken spring on my rear hatch closer.  As it turns out, the springs from a standard retractable ball point pen fit or will at least work until I can find the real spring.  

We also went to a Cars & Coffee event at our local Detail Garage last Sunday and were again the only Datsun there.  A good time but a little hot, luckily, they had flavored ice instead of steaming hot coffee.  It's always cool to see what projects people put their heart and soul into, our favorite this time was an old Dodge Challenger set up for the drag strip.  My son had a lot of fun trying to figure out where the parachute release was located (turns out it was adjacent to the rearview mirror).

This weekend I think I may start getting a list together of things that I want to remedy over the winter and I am toying with removing the 280Z graphics on the sides - I don't think these were a factory option and they look more custom and vintage 1980's in my opinion.  I'm just a little worried that if I do remove them that the paint underneath will be a different shade since it has not been exposed to the sunlight as much as the uncovered paint and the decals have probably been on there a long, long time.  I did also notice a disturbing hum when I had the Z in gear and under load (first noticed in 3rd, but then seemed to be present in 2nd and 4th as well).  It stops when I go into neutral or depress the clutch pedal.  Reading up on here, I am concerned it may be a bearing going bad, so there's more research and diagnosis to come...

Also, if I am going to be doing some significant work over the fall and/or winter months, looks like I am going to have to consider getting a much better jack or possibly a lift for the garage.   

[Racer X]

4 hours ago, Paulytunes said:

…..and this pretty substantial customization of the speaker mount.  Anyone know where I can find a replacement?  These don't seem like an easy to find replacement part, ……

 

 

 

If you can’t find one used, you’ll need to fabricate something.

[Paulytunes]

So the strange and interesting stereo modifications to my car by one of the previous owners continues...

It was a rainy afternoon today, so instead of a Sunday drive I decided to try and figure out why the in dash stereo is inoperable.  Fuses seem to be in place and working order.  I pulled the center console and low and behold the head unit is not only not connected, it is a Craig 3146 model.  This unit looks like an aftermarket stereo - wasn't Hitachi and/or Clarion the OEM suppliers to Datsun/Nissan?  As I recall, my 1983 810 Maxima had a Clarion head unit.  The Craig unit looks to have been manufactured in 1977 and has a 9-pin connector instead of the 6 pin connector.  The chassis wiring connector seems unmolested, but there is no splice piece, connector, or wiring between the head unit connector and the chassis connection.  🤷‍♂️So either it was removed or never installed for fear of having to cut the factory wires.  While it would be cool to have a functioning old school stereo, I don't think I'll be figuring out how to get the old Craig unit working.  I think I either want something close to OEM with Bluetooth functionality or I will just blank off the radio and enjoy the sounds the engine and exhaust makes when I drive.  

In other findings, I may be in the market for a new rubber shift boot, as mine is pretty well disintegrated enough that I can see my garage floor beneath it.  Also, my center console is cracked, may want to replace it or try to glue it back together.

Quote

 

.

[Yarb]

Boots are relatively inexpensive. Gluing itIMO won’t hold up. The trans boot might be deteriorating as well.

[Paulytunes]

So the good news:  I was able to replace the shift boot and repair the center console.  The console was an adventure in trial and error and trying to duplicate a repair technique I saw on Wheeler Dealers.  Suffice to say that JB weld plastic epoxy and bumper repair epoxy are not strong enough to hold the oblong center console together.  Nor is it ever as easy as shown on tv in real life.  However, Rhino Glue worked, and even survived an accidental hit from the rear seat when it wasn't fully seated!

 

[Paulytunes]

The Bad News:  This past Monday, I had some free time due to the Federal Holiday and with the wife at work and kids at school, so I decided to do some additional inspection of the interior.  What concerned me was a few pieces of debris that fell onto my garage floor from where I park the 280Z and the bubbling of the interior coating on the center tunnel and some discoloration I noticed on the 110 paint just beneath the carpet and out of view.  So, I pulled up the carpet and discovered a hole that I can poke my finger through between the footrest and clutch pedal.  Also, it looks like there is some growing rust along the front of the driver's floor pan, and it looks about where the pan is attached to the rail.  There's also a small pencil sized hole near the driver seat rail.  The passenger side looks like it was repaired at some point in the past, there is discoloration and the drain plugs have been filled in, and some of the coating has come loose and is laying on the floor, but much less deterioration than the driver side and I do not see any perforations.  I may also post for some advice in the body forum.  My main questions are how extensive are these repairs (remove and patch vs. replace the floor board(s) and possibly rail(s))? and is this a massive structural issue such that I shouldn't drive until the repairs are made?  One of the previous owners didn't seem to think so, as I found a small plate of metal (likely aluminum) screwed into underbody to cover the finger hole.  When I discovered this damage on Monday, I was pretty sick to my stomach.  Hopefully it's not as bad as I think it is, but I am concerned that the undercoating may be hiding more surprises.  Also, I have been trying to call around to some local body shops to see if they could take a look at it and give me a better assessment of the level of damage, but the minute I mention the word rust most give me the cold shoulder or treat me like I have terminal cancer.     

[Patcon]

I would recommend going to some of the automotive paint supply stores in your area (finish masters?). Ask them for some names of shops that do classic car work. Dont do it in front of other customers! Collision shops don't like working on classic cars. You need to find a restoration shop. The guys who sell the paint will know who's in your area. Go to more than one paint supply house. Their customers tend to shop at only one shop. So it's sort of Balkanized. Once you find a restoration shop they may not be interested or have a long backlog, ask them who they would recommend. It's gonna require some networking.

I would drive the car. The car will still maintain its shape even with no floor pan. I wouldn't thrash on the car though...

[Paulytunes]

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

I would recommend going to some of the automotive paint supply stores in your area (finish masters?). Ask them for some names of shops that do classic car work. Dont do it in front of other customers! Collision shops don't like working on classic cars. You need to find a restoration shop. The guys who sell the paint will know who's in your area. Go to more than one paint supply house. Their customers tend to shop at only one shop. So it's sort of Balkanized. Once you find a restoration shop they may not be interested or have a long backlog, ask them who they would recommend. It's gonna require some networking.

I would drive the car. The car will still maintain its shape even with no floor pan. I wouldn't thrash on the car though...

Charles,

Thanks for the quick reply.  Looks like I have a good bit of work ahead of me.  The classic car community is pretty large here, so I think I have a number of places I can look up and contact.  Good to know this isn't totally debilitating and I can still drive.  I'll take it easy though.  I did have a shop that agreed to look at it yesterday, but I rescheduled because it was pouring down rain and I did not want to take the Z out in that weather.  I want to get an assessment of the magnitude of the issue.  Pretty sure it's not a 3-digit $ problem, more likely it is a 4-digit $ problem, but hopefully is not a 5-digit $ problem.   

[Mark Maras]

 I'd start by cleaning it up, remove anything that's loose, and then go at it with a wire brush on an angle grinder. Once that's done poke around any suspicious areas with an ice pick. That will tell you which areas are thin.