EFI UPGRADE?

[dylancorrea1]

Is there any new or upgraded EFI systems that wont break the bank? I have heard of speedunio but there is little information on it really. the zcardepot one is almost 2k and the protunerz is 1.5k and I dont really want to spend that much.

 

 

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[Yarb]

If you don’t want to spend that amount of money you are better off digging into your factory system and make it run as designed. It’s an archaic system that will run but needs a lot of attention and detail.  Please give us more details on what’s happening and the history of your car. That will help us a lot.

[dylancorrea1]

If you don’t want to spend that amount of money you are better off digging into your factory system and make it run as designed. It’s an archaic system that will run but needs a lot of attention and detail.  Please give us more details on what’s happening and the history of your car. That will help us a lot.

Car runs when it wants too, I got it running pretty smooth actually, but can’t test it due to bad front brakes. I adjusted the afm, and got the RPM to a good 1000 when it starts and about 1200 warmed up. The car has a good amount of new parts. Honestly I might upgrade the fuel rail and regulator just to clean up the engine bay.

New parts:
Fuel pump
Full tune up.
New radiator
Battery
Fuzes
Alternator
Starter
Fusible links
Ignition switch
Ignition coil
Battery cables
Afm boot
Cooling hoses
Fuel injectors
New down pipe and exhaust.


I’m not new new to the car, but definitely not as experienced with a lot of the in-depth technical aspects. I definitely have some sort of fuel issue occasionally as the car will die on steeper inclines, some days it’ll run great some days it’ll just die when I accelerate. I want to get it to a reliable weekend driver around town. Car isn’t exactly nice looking either, last PO didn’t really keep it in the best of shape but everything is there.


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[Yarb]

If you don’t want to spend that amount of money you are better off digging into your factory system and make it run as designed. It’s an archaic system that will run but needs a lot of attention and detail.  Please give us more details on what’s happening and the history of your car. That will help us a lot.

can you clarify what you mean by adjusting the AFM?

[SteveJ]

The first thing to check is fuel pressure. What is it at idle, and what happens when you try to accelerate? Is the fuel line to the fuel pump routed like the factory line, or is it kinked? If you put a fluid line clamp (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html) on the outlet of the FPR, does that reduce the problem? (Tip, don't clamp it down too tightly, just enough to raise the fuel pressure some.

Also, don't make us guess about what year your car is. While we can be sure it's a 280Z, some parts did change over the years.

Have you downloaded the FSM and looked through the EF section? How about the fuel injection bible?

[dylancorrea1]

If you don’t want to spend that amount of money you are better off digging into your factory system and make it run as designed. It’s an archaic system that will run but needs a lot of attention and detail.  Please give us more details on what’s happening and the history of your car. That will help us a lot.
can you clarify what you mean by adjusting the AFM?

Last PO opened up the airflow meter, and moved the screw to try and in rich the car. I moved the screw back to where the car ran better and sounded better on.


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[Yarb]

Please take a hard look at what @SteveJ recommends. You have a lot of trouble shooting ahead of you. As he recommended first it all starts with the fuel pressure . My recommendation is to install a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and fuel rail where you can monitor it while running. This will give you a great head start.

[zclocks]

You may want to add vacuum meter to see what else is going on.

[dylancorrea1]

The first thing to check is fuel pressure. What is it at idle, and what happens when you try to accelerate? Is the fuel line to the fuel pump routed like the factory line, or is it kinked? If you put a fluid line clamp (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html) on the outlet of the FPR, does that reduce the problem? (Tip, don't clamp it down too tightly, just enough to raise the fuel pressure some.
Also, don't make us guess about what year your car is. While we can be sure it's a 280Z, some parts did change over the years.
Have you downloaded the FSM and looked through the EF section? How about the fuel injection bible?

Its a 1978, fuel pressure I have yet to check. I was going to get onto that but then I got busy with school and work. I just ordered a gauge to put on and test with. I have the FSM downloaded and EFI bible. I just lack knowledge sometimes. Really appreciate the help!


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[dylancorrea1]

Please take a hard look at what [mention=4648]SteveJ[/mention] recommends. You have a lot of trouble shooting ahead of you. As he recommended first it all starts with the fuel pressure . My recommendation is to install a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and fuel rail where you can monitor it while running. This will give you a great head start.

Do you have any pictures of the spot it should be in? Ive seen a few pictures and people differ on where it actually should be.


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[SteveJ]

8 minutes ago, dylancorrea1 said:

Do you have any pictures of the spot it should be in? Ive seen a few pictures and people differ on where it actually should be.


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Here:

And don't use worm drive clamps. Use the proper clamps for fuel injection hose. The worm drive clamps aren't designed for the pressure you can see in that part of the fuel system.

[dylancorrea1]

Here:

And don't use worm drive clamps. Use the proper clamps for fuel injection hose. The worm drive clamps aren't designed for the pressure you can see in that part of the fuel system.

Oh man thank you so much, I actually have one worm clamp on a injector. The box supposedly said was rated for 50psi, but it leaks occasionally. Ill change it out, any recommendations on clamps and gauge? Beautiful bay!


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