Fuel rail upgrade?

[dylancorrea1]

Is getting a new fuel rail worth it? I definitely want to clean up the engine bay and get something prettier in there. I was looking at the godzilla race works rail that comes with a built in gauge. But after doing some price calculations I’m looking at around 380-400 in total price. Was wondering if anyone could shine some light if its worth it or not before pulling the trigger.

[grannyknot]

Sounds like the only reason you have for getting a new rail is looks? A fuel pressure gauge is nice but you can plumb that in for $30.

Is it worth it? Hard to put a price on pretty.

[dylancorrea1]

Sounds like the only reason you have for getting a new rail is looks? A fuel pressure gauge is nice but you can plumb that in for $30.
Is it worth it? Hard to put a price on pretty.

My fuel rail has a slight bend to it, nothing major. But I want to redo the entire fuel rail system. With new injector brackets, hardware, lines, filter, regulator,clamps etc. definitely way more of an aesthetic thing, but some functionality along just to make it easier to work on. But I’m still having trouble justifying a large purchase.


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[grannyknot]

I take it you have a 280Z?  Those injectors are getting pretty ancient these days, a modern injector on an L28 engine will allow better tuning, mileage and maybe power.  You would probably have to change over to a different FI management system but I think there are some plug and play units available now, I think MegaSquirt has one but it has been a few years since I played with that stuff.

[dylancorrea1]

I take it you have a 280Z?  Those injectors are getting pretty ancient these days, a modern injector on an L28 engine will allow better tuning, mileage and maybe power.  You would probably have to change over to a different FI management system but I think there are some plug and play units available now, I think MegaSquirt has one but it has been a few years since I played with that stuff.

I looked into that, and definitely wanted to do a conversion. Sadly a few months prior I put in a new set of rebuilt injectors and that solved so many problems along with a new pump. So I just wanted to stick with the oem stuff.


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[SteveJ]

Another reason to get a different fuel rail would be to get one that incorporates an aftermarket FPR more easily.

[dylancorrea1]

Another reason to get a different fuel rail would be to get one that incorporates an aftermarket FPR more easily.

Definitely, I did some research and picked out a decently priced and reliable regular. That fits in and comes with mounting brackets.


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[Zed Head]

Most, maybe all, of the aluminum aftermarket regulators leak pressure down rapidly after the pump shuts off.  It can cause starting problems.  Something to be aware of.

It's a flaw but the marketing guys manufactured some laughable BS to explain it.

https://aeromotiveinc.com/tech-help/faqs/faq-efi-regulators/

6.) I’ve installed my new Aeromotive bypass regulator.  Fuel pressure seems to adjust fine and holds great when the engine is running, but when I shut the engine off, pressure drops quickly to zero.  Shouldn’t the pressure hold like it did with a stock regulator?
No, Aeromotive EFI bypass regulators may not seal perfectly when the pump is off.  They are engineered for the highest possible performance when the engine is running.  OEM regulators must hold pressure for 30-minutes after shut-down to pass EPA emissions standards.  At Aeromotive we know our customers priority is to have the best possible flow and pressure control when the engine is running and we don’t compromise this standard to force the regulator to seal when the engine is off.  If extended crank or hard-start becomes a concern, first allow the pump to run and prime as long as possible after turning the key to the run position, then start cranking the engine, just before the pump shuts off.  If the priming cycle is too short to allow the engine to start easily with this approach, extend the priming cycle in the ECU if programmable, or add a timer board or momentary button to the fuel pump run circuit.

[dylancorrea1]

Most, maybe all, of the aluminum aftermarket regulators leak pressure down rapidly after the pump shuts off.  It can cause starting problems.  Something to be aware of.
It's a flaw but the marketing guys manufactured some laughable BS to explain it.
https://aeromotiveinc.com/tech-help/faqs/faq-efi-regulators/
6.) I’ve installed my new Aeromotive bypass regulator.  Fuel pressure seems to adjust fine and holds great when the engine is running, but when I shut the engine off, pressure drops quickly to zero.  Shouldn’t the pressure hold like it did with a stock regulator?
No, Aeromotive EFI bypass regulators may not seal perfectly when the pump is off.  They are engineered for the highest possible performance when the engine is running.  OEM regulators must hold pressure for 30-minutes after shut-down to pass EPA emissions standards.  At Aeromotive we know our customers priority is to have the best possible flow and pressure control when the engine is running and we don’t compromise this standard to force the regulator to seal when the engine is off.  If extended crank or hard-start becomes a concern, first allow the pump to run and prime as long as possible after turning the key to the run position, then start cranking the engine, just before the pump shuts off.  If the priming cycle is too short to allow the engine to start easily with this approach, extend the priming cycle in the ECU if programmable, or add a timer board or momentary button to the fuel pump run circuit.

Would using a OEM regulator help with this problem? I have new one that I have yet to install. Ive seen people run a stock oem regulator on a new aftermarket fuel rail.


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[siteunseen]

I've installed a 1978 FPR on the passenger's side firewall. The couple of aftermarket ones I tried leaked down.

I ran a T out the rail end closest to the windshield, one side going to the CSV the other to the FPR. I've cleaned it up a little since this picture was made. No zip-tie. 

Don't use a low pressure glass fuel filter like I have at the front end of my rail. It was a temporary way of checking for trash after I relined my fuel tank

Edited August 20, 2023 by siteunseen

[siteunseen]

 

[dylancorrea1]

I've installed a 1978 FPR on the passenger's side firewall. The couple of aftermarket ones I tried leaked down.
I ran a T out the rail end closest to the windshield, one side going to the CSV the other to the FPR. I've cleaned it up a little since this picture was made. No zip-tie. 


Don't use a low pressure glass fuel filter like I have at the front end of my rail. It was a temporary way of checking for trash after I relined my fuel tank

I see, so the FPR maintains the original set up, but you used a T fitting for it.


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