1978 280Z - Won't restart when hot, all interior gauges, fan motor, backlighting not working

[Patcon]

It's $12. Buy a set and try it. Maybe it works, maybe it doesn't. Its a cheap option

[Captain Obvious]

You need something else to be aware of? 

That sender unit threads into a passageway inside the block. That passageway is not very deep and you run the risk that something you tap into the broken off stud bottoms out on the far side of that passageway.  In other words... If you try to use an extractor in the hole in the middle, it's going to need to be sized carefully so that you don't bottom out the tip of the extractor inside the block before the teeth of said extractor bite in.

I know... You really needed just one more complication in this whole ordeal.   

[Zed Head]

The Irwin extractor's I showed are completely external.

But, to my point about finding a friend who knows cars - there are some methodical steps that should be taken to maximize the odds of getting it out.  For example, you can file flats on the sides of the nub that the flats on the Vise-Grips can grab.  It's more effective that relying on the teeth of the grips, which destroy as they bite.  And there are ways to get a better view of the working area, like working through the tire well instead of from above.  The right person with a welder could have it out in a few minutes probably

Unfortunately most people learn those lessons the hard way after they've already destroyed the remnants of the stud/bolt/whatever.  Seems like you're at a point where you can avoid major problems if you get the right plan in place.

You left out the part about sawing off the sending unit and the fact that the nub turned a little bit.  That's actually a good sign.

[Mark Maras]

 If it turned even a little bit, I'd soak it in penetrating oil and then try tightening and loosening it. The back and forth motion will allow more penetrant to seep in.

[NocturnalEmber]

On 9/4/2023 at 6:56 PM, Mark Maras said:

 If it turned even a little bit, I'd soak it in penetrating oil and then try tightening and loosening it. The back and forth motion will allow more penetrant to seep in.

 

On 9/4/2023 at 3:00 PM, Zed Head said:

The Irwin extractor's I showed are completely external.

But, to my point about finding a friend who knows cars - there are some methodical steps that should be taken to maximize the odds of getting it out.  For example, you can file flats on the sides of the nub that the flats on the Vise-Grips can grab.  It's more effective that relying on the teeth of the grips, which destroy as they bite.  And there are ways to get a better view of the working area, like working through the tire well instead of from above.  The right person with a welder could have it out in a few minutes probably

Unfortunately most people learn those lessons the hard way after they've already destroyed the remnants of the stud/bolt/whatever.  Seems like you're at a point where you can avoid major problems if you get the right plan in place.

You left out the part about sawing off the sending unit and the fact that the nub turned a little bit.  That's actually a good sign.

I treated it with Kroil today, going to do that every day until probably Friday, then I'll start my attempts at extraction, which hopefully is met with success; Assuming I'm successful at getting it out, the next thing on the list is installing the replacement sensor; Ideally the threads won't have been damaged, and I can get back to the electrical troubleshooting.

[NocturnalEmber]

So an interim update, my ignition switch and my oil pressure sensor have arrived, and Thursday I'm going to attempt the extraction of that stud; I've had it sitting (and treated regularly) with Kroil, hopefully that will give it enough time.

On a side note - Can someone recommend an oil filter sandwich plate that will fit the L28? I've searched google and surprisingly there isn't one that seems to be car specific or one that isn't part of a large kit.  All I need is the sandwich plate that has two ports on it. 

Ignition switch will be ideally put in tomorrow @SteveJ. Will be following your guide and most definitely labeling the connectors as I replace them. Will report back when it is done!

[Patcon]

The 280zx turbo had an oil cooler with an adapter plate. I have no idea what they cost used

[SteveJ]

6 hours ago, NocturnalEmber said:

On a side note - Can someone recommend an oil filter sandwich plate that will fit the L28? I've searched google and surprisingly there isn't one that seems to be car specific or one that isn't part of a large kit.  All I need is the sandwich plate that has two ports on it. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-510erl/make/nissan/model/280z

[Patcon]

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313&_nkw=280zx+turbo+oil+cooler&_sacat=0

 

[NocturnalEmber]

A positive update (so far at least), I was able to get that stud out via welding a nut onto it.  Took about four tries because the weld kept breaking, but the stud came out and it *looks* clean thread wise.   I want to run a thread chaser inside that hole though before I go trying to thread the replacement oil sensor in fully.  I did attempt to thread it in, and past a few turns I started meeting resistance so I immediately stopped, all threads look good though.    I've read somewhere that its 1/8" BSPT, but I wasn't sure.

 

 

[Yarb]

Correct

[NocturnalEmber]

5 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Correct

While I'm at it, does anyone have any experience using the duralast oil pressure sensors?  That is the only brand I could find (locally) that is the two prong sensor meant for the 78's.   I just want to make sure those have the same thread size before I chase that thread and then try to screw it in.