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Resurrecting my horn (the sans Viagra thread)


AK260

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2 minutes ago, Tirnipgreen said:

I think the gold plated "ring" on the front is actually supposed to be kind of an olive green. That being said, mine are like yours. BTW SteveJ has mine "tooting"...! Awesome...!

Tooting is good!  The plating does have a bit of that rainbow / green tint it's just bad led lighting in the wife's bathroom 🙂

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Nice way to clean parts, how much salt (grams) in the liters of lemonjuice? Also some water or??  What i remember from my horns they need a new adjustment to work right but i think you know that. There is a screw for that in the back of the horn i belief (immsmr).

Hello chap!

I don’t have an exact formula for it but suffice it to say I use a half a table spoon of salt per 1 litre.

The key is to wash out the lemon juice straight away with water and dry off completely as it rusts almost immediately when it hits oxygen!!

Here is what I ended up with the next day after soaking. Then I clear coated the inside to make sure it doesn’t rust. The horn does make a louder noise but as you said it needs adjusting. I need to do the 1000 grit negative connectors clean up next to ensure a decent connection.

33a12487d5f1930df8e75031c02013dc.jpg


For info and interest the coil measures 1.6ohms. Which means 7.5A before contacts break and assuming a perfect square wave when it operates means it’s taking an average of c.3.25 amps.

I also put the horn onto gasket paper and scalpeled out my own gasket before reassembly. Haven’t sealed it yet for obvious reasons.
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Thanks AK, When i got something rusty that needs a restore i try that trick.. Thanks!  In the past i had trouble with parts that had some old paint on them and when they came back from passifying they where not perfect as they don't take off the paint first .. they just throw it in the tanks to clean and passify them. That ment i had to clean them myself and bring them back again..

And..

Don't forget to put a strip of metal in the springs to get them perfect..

IMG-20210918-WA0005.jpg

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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Thanks AK, When i got something rusty that needs a restore i try that trick.. Thanks!  In the past i had trouble with parts that had some old paint on them and when they came back from passifying they where not perfect as they don't take off the paint first .. they just throw it in the tanks to clean and passify them. That ment i had to clean them myself and bring them back again..
And..
Don't forget to put a strip of metal in the springs to get them perfect..
IMG-20210918-WA0005.thumb.jpg.727ce3d5232db24befa4836a2a2c7af8.jpg

Oooh really love the expanding the spring idea !!!

In my experience the lemon juice only fails if your parts are covered in grease - so I tend to bathe the greasy stuff in thinners first. The horn didn’t need it though - but the hand brake mechanism did!!

9611a67dca3c6c6cd33e9f2f667a9e22.jpg
170877361037026b7716d3123a6fdea4.jpg
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The grease makes a mess of the citron/salt solution.. i can imagine that.  What i do i throw the parts in a solution of washing powder (I prefer Biotex green) it cleans the part of grease and any rubber part becomes plyable again!!!

I always use Biotex green to make any hard rubber soft again.. it works most of the time as long the rubber is not damaged. You do this with warm/hot 60C water and leave it in there for a week or so, sometimes look at it, clean it and some rubber parts will give a lot of black dirt from them. throw most of the old soapy water away and take some new soap and hot water once or twice in that week. You end up with a good part!

Thanks for the nice reaction on the spring exspanding idea!  it was my own!! If you don't do that you end up in a year or so with a spring that starts to rust because of the bad passification.

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