Wondering if anyone else has purchased & installed these moldings. They are very nicely made - BUT - they are not pre-bent to the door cap curve. Website just says bend to fit, and Edan unfortunately is not good at responding in a timely manner or actually answering questions about the products he sells. All he said is that it bends easily, when I asked pre-purchase. I have tried to get more specific directions from him directly, to no avail.

Since the molding is flat, I can only 'assume' the contour will correct once bent, however I'm still unclear logistically of the best way to do this. If it would bend easily, one could simply press it down on the door cap to shape it, but that is not the case. It's gonna scratch the paint at the very least. If you have removed these, you know the factory molding has both a fore-aft bow, and a 'in-out' curve to it. I don't want guess with this, they are not cheap.

So, has anyone else played with these?

The quick answer is no, I have not tried these replacement squeegee trims. Years ago I ordered replacements from Black Dragon and faced the same dilemma of paint damage when trying to warp the trim into shape. I ended up removing the rubber squeegee and transferring it to my OE trim. Now you have an alternative from the folks at PRP: replacment squeegee rubber to install to your OE trim. Check out the YouTube video.

BTW, this info came to me via our fellow member @zed2

 

I watched that video and it gives a good showing of how to replace them. I think I would shorten those staples if it were me.

My door glass sure could use polishing from rubbing against the old hardened moulding.

Yeah, I already bought the rubber squeegee & replaced one - the issue for me is that one of my moldings is damaged & I don't want to look at it, hence the full replacement.

Edited September 8, 20231 yr by HusseinHolland

How do you go about removing from car? Without damaging moulding or paint.

Does one remove the door panel first?

3 minutes ago, gundee said:

How do you go about removing from car? Without damaging moulding or paint.

Does one remove the door panel first?

Nothing inside the door is touched.

It's pretty easy to remove - you may be able to lift the rear corner by the glass frame, and simply lever it off. There are 3-4 clips inside the channel that clip onto the top of the door skin lip. If yours won't pull off that way, you can use a putty knife with a layer of tape on it to prevent scratching the paint, tuck it under the rear edge by the door glass frame, and lever it upwards. Once you have it started, just pull it off by hand a s described before.

17 hours ago, gundee said:

How do you go about removing from car? Without damaging moulding or paint.

Does one remove the door panel first?

When  i removed mine the only issued I had was that the window glass stabilizers were stuck to the molding making it difficult to remove them. I had to roll the window up and down a bit to get the roller out as a unit with the molding. I did have my door panels off allowing more "wiggle room" as the glass was still in.

In Wick Humble's book for re assembly he recommends installing the stabilizer rollers first to the lip on the top of the door and then installing the trim molding last.

 

Edited September 9, 20231 yr by CanTechZ

11 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

When  i removed mine the only issued I had was that the window glass stabilizers were stuck to the molding making it difficult to remove them. I had to roll the window up and down a bit to get the roller out as a unit with the molding. I did have my door panels off allowing more "wiggle room" as the glass was still in.

In Wick Humble's book for re assembly he recommends installing the stabilizer rollers first to the lip on the top of the door and then installing the trim molding last.

What year is yours? Mine had no extra parts attached - I'm not familiar with the extra pieces that are attached to yours at all. 

 

I see now in the manual there is what they refer to as a "Glass Bumper"  looks like it's supposed to be somewhere in the middle of the door? That is MIA in my door. I had the whole thing apart when I fixed the door card. Do you have a bette picture of it?

 

EDIT - never mind, found them on ZcarDepot - they also show where it needs to be installed

 

 

Edited September 10, 20231 yr by HusseinHolland

Yes, designed to keep the glass from tipping too far out of the door

33 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Yes, designed to keep the glass from tipping too far out of the door

Yeah, I wondered why mine seem to flap in the breeze when lowered part way, seemed unlike Nissan given the care taken with all aspects of design on this car. I ordered a pair as mine must have died years ago & been discarded - the bracket isn't there or I would have known to look further into it when I was working on the driver's door.

Sometimes they rust and break off. The rest ends up in the bottom of the door.

I put the rollers & brackets (from ZcarDepot) in some time ago - forgot to update. As far as the fitting moldings go, Silvermine has been useless. His sugeestion is to gorilla glue the molding to the the door, after you (somehow) bend them to fit the compound curve of the door without damaging them. I will never buy from him again, that's for sure.